Getting Around Ireland

The best way to see Ireland is by car. Yes, you can take a bus or a train but then you are limited in what you can do and see. Many of the best sights are off the beaten path. (Unless you are in Dublin, then use the public transport!)

Our car was included in our package from Brendan Tours. It was a small 4-door manual transmission with a hatch back. And, honestly,you don't want anything too big. Many roads you will travel are narrow with hedgerows or even stone fences on either side. Many times we had to pull off the side of a road so another car could squeeze by going the opposite direction. But such is the joy of the Irish countryside. (Signs are in kilometers per hour. I was told by an Irishman during my first trip that the speed limits are "just a suggestion". Let me suggest sticking to them.)



Because we had our then-one-year-old daughter with us we came prepared with an in-car DVD player and DVDs. Just a note on that: the power outlet in the car we had (and probably most European cars) was larger than what we have in the US. We were able to tighten the plug by folding up paper and inserting it beside. **I am not suggesting you do this but only explaining what we did. I am not liable for any damage you may cause** I can't imagine what the driving could have been like without the entertainment for Brenna.


And speaking of Brenna; she was in a car seat. We brought ours to use on the plane but you can reserve one if you don't want to lug yours through the airport. Just make sure that you request it in advance and be sure to confirm it when you confirm your reservation (either with the rental company or have your travel agent handle it).





We made sure to plan our driving to coincide with Brenna's nap schedule. We did short trips when she was awake and made sure she got a lot of time to burn off her energy when we stopped and we did our longer drives after lunch when she napped. This worked really well and we didn't experience any tantrums or melt-downs.



In Ireland and the UK you drive on the left. The driver's seat is on the right side of the car and you shift with your left hand. This actually sounds more difficult than it is. This is your smallest worry. More importantly you need to remember to look right, then left, then right again. This is very easy to forget when you are walking in a city. I have found that the best advice I can give is to just pause before you turn or cross a street. Look everywhere. Look again. Then proceed.


As a final note: Be prepared to abandon your itinerary and follow interesting signs you see along the road. Some of the best memories are unplanned.

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Cahir Castle and Town, County Tipperary, Ireland

Cahir (pronounced 'care') makes a terrific afternoon trip out of Cashel. The castle-complete with a moat- is especially nice for children as it sits on a small island and both the grounds and the castle are very open and perfect for exploring.

Once inside the main keep you can enter the castle through a rather sinister looking portcullis.

You can walk on the battlements, explore the upper levels of the castle or imagine dining in the great hall. Across the outer ward are the residence cottages, built after the main castle, also available to explore. This is a great stop for wandering through a castle on your own as it feels like (almost) nothing is off limits. You really get a feel for what it could have been like to live there.

The village of Cahir is lovely. It looks just like you imagine all Irish towns look. Perfect.

And if you enjoy antiquing you will be overjoyed. Cahir is full of antique shops. We saw absolutely amazing things here. We spent a lot of time "furnishing" our imaginary manor. Brenna especially liked this 18th century fish tank.

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Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary, Ireland

I have yet to see anyting more imposing or awe inspiring than the Rock of Cashel. Breathtaking, spellbinding, awesome... These words don't even do it justice.

It was originaly built as a fortress in the 4th or 5th century. In the late 7th century St. Patrick baptised a King of Munster here. Cashel was the seat and symbol of the overkingship of Munster and the inaguration place of its kings. In 1101 the reigning King of Cashel gave "the Rock" to the church. Of course their was much religious turmoil in Ireland for the next 700 years and "the Rock", being the great symbol that it is, was not peaceful. In 1869 it was given into State Care as a National Monument and underwent great restoration.

The original St Patrick's Cross sits indoors, out of the elements. A replica sits outside in it's (approximate) original location.

The Rock of Cashel is a great stop if you have children because the grounds are very open and easy to wander. Feel free to admire the architecture and the Celtic art, since the entire site is walled in kids can't get very far.

There is quite a steep walk up to the main entrance so be sure to bring along your stroller as you really don't want to carry anyone.

"The Rock" certainly overshadows the other great sites in Cashel but try not to overlook Hore Abbey (we couldn't tour it as there were cows in the field), Athassel Priory, the town of Cashel with it's abbey and friary and the Bolton Library which houses the "world's smallest book".

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Ashmore House, County Tipperary, Ireland

Ashmore House in Cashel was the second B&B of our Irish vacation. A 19th century Georgian home, it once belonged to the local Bishop and maintains an air of elegance.

We arrived as darkness was falling and had a little trouble finding the house. Thankfully the Irish are known for their friendliness and after asking directions of a gentleman on the street we found that we were only a couple of blocks away.

We were warmly greeted by Laura Ryan and quickly settled in to our room. The room itself was not overly spacious- they never are in homes of that age- but wasn't cramped and had an ensuite bath. There was a sitting area in the upper hall and well as a larger parlor for guests on the main level.

Brenna was most welcomed, made herself right at home and began playing on the steps.

The Ryan's have grandchildren and gates are installed at both the top and foot of the stairs which made it easy to let Brenna play on the upper landing without worrying about her getting too far away.

Breakfast was made to order each morning and together Doug and I can highly recommend Laura's culinary talents.

Laura and Brendan are both a wealth of knowledge about the area and it's attractions, restaurants and their home. Brendan has traveled the world with the Royal Navy and has great stories to share. They open their home to you as a relative would and it makes for a great experience and a relaxing stay.

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Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

Very few things are as awe inspiring as the Cliffs of Moher in Ireland. There is a reason this is Ireland's top tourist attraction. Words just can't describe the awesome natural beauty.

O'Brien's Tower was built in 1835 as a viewing spot for the tourists that thronged to the Cliffs even then. It sits majestically at the cliff head and provides a terrific backdrop for pictures. As if the Cliffs weren't enough.

You may not think that taking children to a cliff is wise but I can assure you that it is safe (see the tall stone wall in the second photo?). There is plenty of open space and the walk up the hill will surely help to work off all the energy from the drive. Brenna had great fun watching the many birds and running along the paths.

When we visited in November 2005 changes were underway and the visitors area was completely different from my solo visit in 2003. A new visitor center is open and the interactive experience Atlantic Edge looks incredible.

Also new are Rangers to provide safety and help conserve the Cliffs. Not a bad idea since the Cliffs get almost a million visitors a year.

**At this writing we are planning another trip to Ireland for spring of 2008. I can guarantee we will be visiting the Cliffs again.

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Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, County Clare, Ireland

Bunratty Castle and Folk Park deserves at least half a day. Which half really depends on the age of your children.

If your kids are young, as Brenna was when we visited, I would suggest making this your morning stop. Explore the castle, wander through the folk park and let the kids run off their energy at the wonderful castle playground.

If your kids are older- and not picky eaters- I suggest making this your afternoon and evening entertainment and joining the festivities at the Medieval Banquet. I really enjoyed the banquet on my first trip to Ireland (I was single at the time and went alone- just me, a car & a map) and highly recommend it.

Bunratty Castle was built in 1425 and restored in 1954 and contains 15th and 16the century furnishings, art and tapestries. (You can view these items by clicking here) You are allowed to wander through the castle at your own pace. It is possible to climb to the roof of the castle and look out over the "kingdom".

Just keep in mind that anything above the main level is centuries old and therefore accessible only by very narrow,very steep, very windy steps. If your kids aren't walking don't forget your carriers.



The Bunratty Folk Park is a fabulous adventure for the whole family. Filled with examples of Irish homes, shops and a village there is plenty to explore. Many of the buildings were disassembled at their original locations and rebuilt at Bunratty; you really get a feel of what Irish life was like from midieval times until quite recently.

The village is "fully functioning" with costumed performers going about their "lives". It includes a school, a doctor, a pub, pawnbroker, printer and post office- to list just a few. Be prepared to stop and chat with both the "citizens" of Bunratty as well as other visitors. And don't forget to take time to sample the fresh baked items in the Tea Room or a pint at the pub.

If you like to garden- or just enjoy looking at a beautiful garden- don't miss the Bunratty Walled Garden, modeled after gardens of the Regency era. It is beautifully laid out and a joy to wander through.

If the Medieval Banquet isn't on your agenda but you would like to have an Irish Experience you might enjoy the Traditional Irish Night. This evening is not so formal as the banquet but no less enjoyable.

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Bunratty Meadows B&B, County Clare, Ireland

In November 2005 we packed up our little family and headed to Ireland. With a one-year-old it was quite an adventure.

We were able to get the best package through our travel agent (Diana Rosenberg at Allied Travel in Des Moines 515-270-7070) with Brendan Vacations. Our stay was 7 days/8 nights and included airfare, B&Bs and a car. FYI: cars in Ireland are manual. If you want an automatic you must request it and you will pay more.

Flights to Europe are usually overnight so try to rest. I recommend ear plugs and a sleep mask, otherwise the other passengers, the in-flight movies or the lights will keep you awake.

We landed at Shannon Airport shortly after 9am. I had been in contact with our first B&B and knew that, if necessary, we could check in early. Which was a Godsend as we were exhausted.

Bunratty Meadows was easy to find and just what we needed after our long journey. Dariena Sutton was ready for us and had a cot (Pack & Play) ready in our room. I had shipped a box of necessities ahead and that was in our room, also ***.

The room was spacious, with two comfortable beds and an ensuite bath with a shower. The house sits back from the main roads and is quiet and peaceful with a beautiful view of the River Shannon Estuary.


After our rest Dariena had fresh scones and coffee awaiting us in the dining room. She was very friendly and answered all of our questions, both about the area and her B&B.

Later that evening after Brenna had gone to bed we were able to access the internet, check email and update our blog. There is also a TV in each room or a guest's lounge if you wish to mingle with others.

Bunratty Meadows boasts an extensive breakfast menu and everything we had was wonderful. Don't let the thought of black pudding scare you- it is delicious- and I can never get enough of the brown bread. Doug had the Burren smoked salmon with scrambled eggs and raved about it. Cereal and yogurt were available for Brenna and Dariena made her freezer available to use for ice packs for the day's travels.

Bunratty Meadows is a terrific B&B, the perfect spot for your first night, your final night or as your home base for the western counties.




*** If you travel by plane and you know you will need items that you cannot easily obtain at your destination inquire about sending them so they will be there for your arrival. Dariena Sutton was happy to hold our box of necessities: diapers, wipes, disposable cups, plates, dishes, toddler snacks & food, etc. Your luggage will be full enough without carrying these items and you can dispose of them before you head home.

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Tips For The Airport

Brenna's first flight was from Des Moines, Iowa to Shannon, Ireland via Chicago and Dublin. Needless to say it was a very long flight. She was 12 months old. Luckily she showed no ear problems and slept quite a bit. Caelan's was from Des Moines to Dallas, TX when she was just two months old. Here are my tips for remaining sane.

1) If your child uses a safety seat in the car use it on the plane. Not only is it safer but your child will be more comfortable. It will also be familiar to them and will make the strangeness of the flight a bit more normal. Some airlines charge less for a child's seat; ask. We used a wheeled, collapsible dolly (you can find them in most stores in the luggage department) to pull the seat through the airport. If you fly often the Sit-N-Stroll Baby Car Seat and Stroller may be for you.

2) Do not try to carry your baby, your luggage and your carry-ons. Strap as much as you can in the carseat (if your child isn't in it!) and strap the carseat to a rolling suitcase or Folding Cart. And get a stroller/backpack combination. We have the InStep version and absolutely love it! This is the most versatile product we own and we can't imagine doing without it!

3) If you plan to keep baby on your lap, as we did for Caelan's first flight,I recommend using a Snugli By My Side carrier. Of course there are many other brands. I chose the Snugli By My Side for two reasons: one, I am short. The front carriers didn't allow me to walk easily with baby as her legs dangled too far down. And two, with baby on the hip it is more comfortable to sit.

4) Don't take your big, bulky stroller through the airport. These systems are expensive and will probably get damaged in some way. Airport baggage handlers who have to take the stroller from the jetway to the luggage area and back will thank you. Use an inexpensive umbrella stroller or the stroller/backpack.

5) Pack plenty of juice, milk and snacks - just be sure it's allowed through security before you go. Don't forget food if your child is too young to eat what the airline may serve. Pick up some new books and small toys to entertain your child. Brenna loves flash cards, coloring books and crayons. If you have purchased a seat for your child she gets one carry-on and one personal item, just like everyone else.

6) Yes, families with small children can board first. And if you are traveling alone with children you need to do this. But, if you have the option, one parent can go on and get the seats set up while the other remains in the terminal until final boarding call. Why strap the kids down before absolutely necessary?

7) Most flight attendants are great with kids. If you get stuck on the tarmac waiting for the weather to clear in Chicago (as we did for over an hour) the flight attendant can be a big help. Even though we were told to remain seated our flight attendant walked our daughter up and down the aisle and "introduced" her to the other passengers.

8) Know that sometimes you can't prevent the fussiness. Apologize to fellow passengers who are close. Most of them will understand and will appreciate your acknowledgement.

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