Killarney for Kids: Killarney National Park, Ross Castle and Muckross House, Friary and Traditional Farms

We spent 4 days and 3 nights around Killarney. There is a reason this is one of Ireland's tourist hot-spots - there is so much to do! We didn't even scratch the surface. Kid friendly doesn't even begin to describe all you can do in and around Killarney.

Killarney National Park is Ireland's first national park. It came into being in 1932 when the Muckross Estate was gifted to Ireland by Senator Arthur Vincent and his parents-in-law Mr. and Mrs. William Bowers Bourn, in memory of his late wife Maud.

The National Park covers over 25,000 acres of mountains, moors, woods, lakes and rivers, parks and gardens. There are many entries into the park within and outside of Killarney and a nice day will have the paths filled with walkers and bikers. (Bikes are available for rent in Killarney at Kerry Bike Hire or Killarney Rent a Bike.) We chose to get an overview of the park by taking a ride in a jaunting cart. Automobiles are not allowed inside the park.

Jaunting carts gather on Kenmare Place in Killarney. This is a main roundabout on the edge of Killareny's tourist district (just in front of Lir Cafe & Chocolates); you won't miss it. Our driver, Martin (who, quite incidentally, took me on my first jaunting cart tour of Killarney National Park in 2003), was a wealth of information during our ride through the park and stopped for photo opps. (He and his wife also own a B&B on Ross Road).

Your jaunting cart tour will take you through a portion of the park, past a large public playground, and to Ross Castle on Lough Leane (the Lake of Learning).

Ross Castle is a 15th century tower house and was one of the last strongholds in the region to surrender to Oliver Cromwell in 1652. It has been restored and is furnished in the style of the 16th and 17th centuries. Guided tours are available mid-March thru late November.

If you picnic near Ross Castle save bits of bread or crackers for the ducks and swans that inhabit Lough Leane year round. They'll come right to the edge of the lake to say hi. My girls were fascinated with the "birdies".

Ross Castle is an OPW Heritage site. An OPW Hertiage Card card covers many of Ireland's greatest sites and is good for one year from date of purchase. It can be purchased at any OPW site, the Dublin or Shannon airports and certain tourist offices.

Lough Leane was given it's name because of the monastery that sits on it's largest island, Innisfallen. Built in the 7th century and occupied for nearly 700 years this is where the 'Annals of Innisfallen', a cronicle of early Irish history, was written. If you wish to investigate the ruins on Innisfallen rowboats are available for rent at the castle.

The Muckross Estate is the center of Killarney National Park and is a great place to begin the day.

We first drove out Kenmare Road (N71) and parked at an entrance to the park near Muckross Abbey. There will likely be jaunting carts here but decline and enjoy the short stroll. This is a great ruin to explore as you can climb the narrow spiral staircases into the upper levels for great views of the lakes. A large yew tree fills the cloister court. At the edge of the cloister you will also see this terrific tile map of the Abbey:

Take time to explore the church yard as many Irish notables are laid here- including The McCarthy Mor, king of Munster (he's in the chancel).

From here you can walk to Muckross House or return to your car and drive another mile down the road to the main entrance. Muckross House is open year round, while its Traditional Farms are open late March thru October.

Muckross Estate is an OPW Heritage site. An OPW Hertiage Card card covers many of Ireland's greatest sites and is good for one year from date of purchase. It can be purchased at any OPW site, the Dublin or Shannon airports and certain tourist offices.

The tour of Muckross House, a breathtaking 19th century Victorian mansion, is well worth your time. Small children may become bored about half way through so my recommendation is to take separate tours- one parent tours inside while the other parent tours the gardens with the children. (if you do take your kids on the tour the guides are most gracious and give special attention to your little ones.)

Where my daughters didn't become bored, however, were on the grounds of Muckross Estate and in the gardens. Outside the front entrance (seen above) you will find more jaunting carts. This is a great place to catch a ride if you haven't been on one yet. Otherwise just stroll the grounds. From here you have a great yard that nestles up to Middle Lake. Around back you will find an amazing rock garden filled with stone paths and benches. It's a great place to explore and look for faeries.

If the kids get tired of exploring there they will surely love the maze garden just down the hill.

After playing and touring take a break in the Walled Garden Center and visit the craft shop, view weavers and potters, and have a quick snack (or lunch) in the restaurant.

Then venture over to Muckross Traditional Farms. Visit three working farms and the people that were necessary to make them work. The time span for the farms is the 1930's and 40's when then main power was horses and the day ended when the sun went down.

If you're up for a bit more exploring you can walk or drive (a bit farther down the N71) to Torc Waterfall. It may not be the biggest waterfall you've ever seen but it is set in such a beautiful location that you'll want to take your photo in front of it.

More Killarney for Kids:
Shopping
Mystical Rose B&B, Dining & Handy Hints
Kennedy's Animal, Bird & Pet Farm

Read more...

Snack & Play Travel Tray

I was contacted not long ago by Family Travel Gear, a company that specializes in products for people traveling with kids, and asked to review their products and services. Of course I was quite flattered- who doesn't like to try stuff?

I spent quite a lot of time perusing their website, which is very user friendly. You can easily find just what you are searching for with their categories by person, trip or item. As I looked through their travel items I was impressed by not only the large selection but also the fact that they have everything from games and books to GPS systems.

I chose to try their Snack & Play Travel Tray as we were preparing for a rather long car trip. I was immediately attracted to this tray over similar items because it has a foam base which is sturdy enough for drawing or eating but will not injure the child in case of an accident.

The tray itself can attach around a car seat, stroller or the child so it does not have to be steadied on the lap (therefore avoiding being dropped numerous times which may be a fun game for your little ones but not so much for you). There are big mesh pockets on both sides to hold crayons and small coloring books, toys or drinks. It also has foam sides to keep everything on the tray, which is great for on-the-go snacking. And since the tray is nylon it is easy to clean.

Here is the overview (from the Family Travel Gear website):

Strap buckles around car seat, stroller, or child

Foam insert collapses on impact

Padded rim keeps toys and snack on the travel tray

Two mesh side pockets

Sturdy nylon fabric

Dimensions: Tray area 10" x 15"; Side walls 2" deep.

Brenna, age 3 1/2 really enjoyed the tray for drawing and other activities.

Caelan, our 1 1/2 year old, liked it best to keep her snacks from escaping.

Although they don't mention using this tray for air travel I am going to. If you use a car seat on an airplane (which I recommend if your child is under 2 and you are taking a long flight) this will come in very handy as the seat back trays will not fold flat over your child's lap if they are in a carseat. This makes it very difficult when it is time to eat. I really wish we had this product when we flew to Ireland. (It would have also been really handy during all the driving we did over there.)

Family Travel Gear gets great marks from me for customer service. Every bit of my transaction with them was verified via email (you can also track your order via "My Account" on their website) and shipping was super fast. They have a 30 day 100% satisfaction guarantee policy and a member discount (for customers who create an account) of 5%.

I highly recommend them for your family's travel supplies.

Read more...

Killarney for Kids: Kennedy's Animal, Bird and Pet Farm

Not far out from Killarney (about 5 miles) along the N22 is Kennedy's Animal, Bird and Pet Farm. We spent an afternoon there with the girls playing on the outdoor and indoor playgrounds, petting animals and having fun.

Kennedy's has dozens of animals: sheep and goats, horses and deer, puppies and rabbits, all sorts of fowl from chickens to peacocks and so many more. Most are friendly and will gladly follow you around if you give them a scratch on the nose (as we found with the deer- they were our constant companions during our time at the farm).

Kennedy's has a large outdoor play area with swings, slides and forts, a huge indoor area with a maze, sand pit, riding toys, swings and slides and a toddler play area (also indoors). There are buses that have been converted to seating areas and a few restrooms scatted throughout the property.

This was definitely a welcomed break for the girls from the castles and abbeys we had been touring.

Although we didn't lodge there Kennedy's has three self catering holiday homes for weekly rental. With a view of the mountains and accessibility to the animals and playground this would definitely qualify as a children's paradise.

More Killarney for Kids:
Shopping
Mystical Rose B&B, Dining and Handy Hints
Killarney National Park, Ross Castle and Muckross House, Friary and Traditional Farms

Read more...

Killarney for Kids: Shopping

We spent 4 days and 3 nights around Killarney. There is a reason this is one of Ireland's tourist hot-spots - there is so much to do! We didn't even scratch the surface. Kid friendly doesn't even begin to describe all you can do in and around Killarney.

Killarney is the major tourist town of south west Ireland; you can get practically anything here. One of our first stops was Christy's Irish Stores. Yes, Christy's is quite touristy. But if you are traveling with little ones there is no better place to let them pick out their own trinkets and souvenirs. Enter through the front door and head straight up the steps. Here you will find a very large, very open area of tourist gifts. Stuffed lambs, firey headed leprechauns, stuffed soccer balls... All emblazoned with "Ireland". My girls had a great time picking out their own souvenirs. And don't despair- there are treasures here for adults, too. And on your way back down the stairs take a quick turn to the left. There's a tiny nook right before the crystal room (don't leave the kids unattended in the crystal room!) with Bunratty Mead, whiskey candies and other flavorful goodies.

If you're after a true Aran sweater leave Christy's through the crystal room and turn left after your exit. Walk a couple of blocks and at the corner of College Street you will find the Aran Sweater Market. If you have any Irish in your background this is where you will come to get your hand knit clan sweater. And be sure to grab sweaters for the kids. The jumpers here are lovely- and warm!

Just a bit of history for you, in case you're wondering about Aran sweaters and clan knits: The Irish have always been people of the sea, as you would expect of an island nation. An Aran sweater can absorb 30% of its weight in water before feeling wet. This made it ideal for fishermen. Each clan has it's own design so when a body would wash ashore it could be identified by the weave of the sweater and the lost man could be returned to his clan for proper burial. For more thorough information click here.

A bit farther down College Street is a little shop called Serendipity. They have a beautiful selection of Kerry Glass.

And Country Crafts on Kenmare Place (just down from the International Hotel) had a great puzzle of Ireland and all its counties. The ladies who work there are absolute gems. They were so kind to the girls- and even shared their crisps.

Shopping is big business around the center of Killareny so I just want to leave you with this note: the shops close at 6pm. Do your shopping early.

More Killarney for Kids:
Mystical Rose B&B, Dining and Handy Hints
Kennedy's Animal, Bird and Pet Farm
Killarney National Park, Ross Castle and Muckross House, Friary and Traditional Farms

Read more...

Killarney for Kids: Mystical Rose B&B, Dining and Handy Hints

We spent 4 days and 3 nights around Killarney. There is a reason this is one of Ireland's tourist hot-spots - there is so much to do! We didn't even scratch the surface. Kid friendly doesn't even begin to describe all you can do in and around Killarney.

We had actually planned to spend our time in Killarney at a B&B/riding stable just outside of town. I had made my reservation online and had it confirmed through the booking agency. I was not, however, able to reach anyone at the B&B itself until the day before we were to arrive. Imagine my surprise when I was told that they were not open (due to circumstances beyond their control) and had not received notice of my reservation. That left us scrambling for a 3 day reservation the evening before arriving in Killarney. Handy tip: always get a confirmation via email from the B&B itself. Even better, call and speak to the owner to confirm your arrival before you leave on vacation.

Happily, I was able to get a reservation on very short notice at Noreen O'Mahoney's Mystical Rose Country Home. Mystical Rose is Frommer's recommended and Noreen has received Irish Welcome Certificates of Merit from Falite Ireland (by nomination submitted by happy travelers).

Noreen is the friendliest hostess I have ever encountered. She went above and beyond to make our daughters comfortable and help us with anything we needed during our stay. Noreen knows everyone in Killarney (it seems) and can steer you in the right direction for any need you may have.

Mystical Rose has six rooms, all ensuite and quite cozy, with televisions, hair dryers and a desk/dressing table. Noreen will provide a cot upon request. She did not have a high chair when we visited so be sure to remember your travel booster if you have a little one. (Although she may have a booster of her own soon as she was quite impressed with ours!)

Noreen serves an generous Irish breakfast in the mornings accompanied by toast and brown bread, coffee or tea and orange juice. She made wonderful pancakes (thin like a crepe) for the girls that were melt-in-your-mouth delish.

Noreen is full of wonderful stories about Killarney and can set you up on any tour you would like to take (like I said, she knows practically everyone) and give you great advice on what to see. She's also great with kids. Our first morning Brenna had finished her breakfast long before the rest of us. Noreen had just been telling Brenna about her horse and Brenna, loving horses, wanted to see it. So Noreen took her along to feed the horse. She went out of her way and made a little girl's day. (Brenna still talks about the horses.)

Mystical Rose Country Home is within walking distance of Killarney's tourist center- about a 15-20 minute walk- a nice stroll that will save you the hassle of finding a parking spot during busy tourist seasons.


Laundry to Do? If you checked out my packing post you know that we packed clothes for four days and planned to do laundry. Noreen had us go to Gleeson Laundrette on Brewery Lane. It's a tiny bit of a "street" (more like an alley, really) just across from where the jaunting carts line up on Kenmare Place and around the corner from Lir Cafe and Chocolates. If you don't know it's there you'll miss it...

I was able to drop my laundry off in the morning and pick it up in the evening. It was washed, dried and folded. I had a huge pullman full of clothes and I paid €24 to have it done. And we didn't lose any sightseeing time.

Dining

There is no lack of dining in Killarney. You can find anything and everything here. Just remember that dining out is expensive... And dining at one of the nicer restaurants is even more so. Especially in a town that thrives on tourism.

One of the first things Brenna saw as we entered Killarney was a McDonalds. Yep, McDonalds. There is also a Burger King. And, yes, we had Happy Meals one night. It made the girls happy which is always a big plus.

Another evening we ate at Allegro on Plunkett Street. It's a sit-down fast food type restaurant that serves fish and chips, pizza, burgers and fried chicken. A bit of something for everyone. It was inexpensive and, if you want, they can deliver to some areas.

One place you will definitely eat in Ireland is a pub. Killarney has a plethora of pubs. On College Street you will find Murphy's of Killarney. Consisting of Murphy's Bar, Lord Kenmare's Restaurant, Squire's Bar and Murphy's Accommodatins you have a few choices. We had a pleasant dinner in Squire's Bar our final night in Killarney. They had a very nice children's menu (the girls split a plate of pasta and also munched on our dinners of Shepherd's Pie, Irish Stew and Fish & Chips). It's a great place to relax, enjoy the atmosphere and a Bulmer's.

More Killareny for Kids:
Shopping
Kennedy's Animal, Bird and Pet Farm
Killarney National Park, Ross Castle, and Muckross House, Friary and Traditional Farms

Read more...

The English Market and Farmgate Cafe, Cork, Ireland

The day we visited Cork City we had many plans for outdoor adventures. Unfortunately that is also the day that the "sunny south east" of Ireland saw snow for the first time in 15 years. So while the weather deterred us from a walking tour of Cork City it did allow us more time to explore the market and have lunch.

Here in the states we call it a "farmer's market" and it's usually a weekly event. Cork's English Market is open Monday thru Saturday 9am-5pm. Though the name is a hold-over from the days of English rule (to distinguish itself from the market for the Irish) the market is full Irish (with some great imports).

The English Market is a permanent indoor market and is surrounded by shops; it's very easy to miss one of the four entrances (off Grand Parade, Oliver Plunkett St, St. Patrick's St or Prince's St; two of those streets are foot traffic only) so be sure to look up.

Once you are inside the sights are astounding. Meats in every form, fresh fish, vegetables, fruits... Bakeries, chocolates and cheeses... One beside another the food spills forward and you can't help but stop and marvel at things you've never seen before. Crubeens (pigs feet) and tripe (stomach), buttered eggs (a Cork delicacy) and drisheens (local blood sausage) sit along side stalls offering buckets of olives and Oriental spices.

It's all very overwhelming so my humble suggestion is to wander about the stalls for a while and then head upstairs to the Farmgate Cafe. Take a minute and look down upon the central court. It's a great view for people watching.

Even if the market isn't overly busy you can count on the Farmgate Cafe to be doing a brisk business. One side is a self-service queue-to-order galley overlooking the central court and the other is a glassed-in more formal area with table service. (You may want to make a reservation if you plan to be there for lunch or high season 021/427-8134; they aren't open for dinner).

We waited for a table and ate in the full service area. The daily specials depend entirely on what is available downstairs in the market. The food is so fresh and so fabulous, definately memorable. Doug enjoyed his Shepherd's Pie, my mom raved about her Savory Tart and I wanted to bribe the chef for the Corned Beef with Mustard Parsley Sauce recipe. I have never had such tender corned beef and the sauce was so light... Absolutely wonderful.

The Farmgate Cafe is a member of GoodFoodIreland, which brings together Irish agriculture and tourism. The GoodFoodIreland website can lead you to great dining across the country.

The girls sampled bits of what we had and even with their help we were all too full to enjoy a dessert. We did, however, have enough room for a few chocolates from the shop at the bottom of the stairs.

When you gotta go: I only saw one public bathroom in the market and it was tucked back in a corner near a cheese vendor. If you enter through the center court (Oliver Plunkett St., I think) go past the steps heading up to the Farmgate Cafe. Take a left and then a quick right. It's not well marked. And have a 20 cent piece- it'll cost you to open the door.

Read more...

Kilkenny Castle, County Kilkenny, Ireland

Kilkenny Castle is the type of castle you picture in your mind. Imposing from the outside, opening to a great park at the rear and a garden with fountains at the front. Kilkenny Castle is almost like a fairy tale.

Kilkenny Castle belonged to the Butler family, the earls of Ormande from 1391 to 1967 when it was handed over to the Irish government to be painstakingly restored to its former splendor. Guided tours through the castle are available; arrive early and book ahead if you can to avoid disappointment (or naptime).

Note: Kilkenny Castle is an OPW Heritage Site. You can purchase an OPW card here for use at other OPW sites. OPW cards are good for one year from purchase.

The restoration of the castle is breathtaking; it has been refurnished with period pieces and portraits of the Butler family )as well as a King and Queen of England) and a suite of Brussles tapestries. Unfortunately no photos are allowed inside so I strongly suggest a short stop in the bookstore to pick up a visitor's guide and a few postcards.

If you don't plan ahead for a tour (because we didn't- learn from me) be sure to take in the grounds. The entrance to the grounds is through the arched gateway in the curtain wall along the Parade. (Before you enter look to the right. See if you can spot the garedrobe (toilet) chute and small Posturn Gate with stone steps that led to the moat.) This brings you into the courtyard; you are surrounded on three sides by the castle.

And laying to the east are acres of parkland. If it's sunny stop and pick up some Irish cheese and some bread for a picnic on the grounds. Bring a ball or kite. This is a perfect spot to relax and play. In fact, there is a play area for the kids with swings, climbing areas and slides.

To the west of the castle (accessible by walking around the castle or through a gate from the Parade) are the formal gardens. Obviously they are much more beautiful during the spring and summer but the girls were fascinated by the fountain.

The River Nore runs along side Kilkenny Castle and a river walk is accessible from the park.

While there are other great things to do in Kilkenney I recommend heading just south of town to the Medieval Kells Priory. Heading south on N76 from Kilkenny follow signs for r699/Callan and stay on R699 until you see signs for Kells.

Read more...

Jerpoint Abbey, County Kilkenny, Ireland

Our first stop in County Kilkenny was Jerpoint Abbey. Located just outside of Thomastown you really can't miss it as it nestles up to N9 (a major roadway). We received a great lesson on the history of Jerpoint Abbey from Sheila in the interpretive center- be sure to stop in, you will notice more as you tour the abbey.

Note: Jerpoint Abbey is an OPW Heritage Site. Admission is included with your Heritage Card. If this is your first stop you can purchase a card here for use at other OPW sites.

Jerpoint Abbey was founded about 1160, probably by the King of Ossory, and in 1180 it was colonized by Cistercian monks who followed the austere life of prayer and hard work. We were told that there was so much work that there were two sets of monks- the lay brothers who did 90% of the work and 10% of prayer and the monks who did 90% of the prayer and 10% of the work.

Most Cistercian abbeys do not have the carvings and artwork that you see around Jerpoint Abbey which suggests a break from the original rigour of the Order.

The photo below shows the cloister. This is where the monks would have slept. This is also where you will see the amazing carvings and round arches which were very ornate.

This one of a knight is especially easy to see; some are quite worn with age and time. What you may have a difficult time seeing is that little indentation to his left (the right looking head on).

It's a monkey.

Medieval abbeys are amazingly beautiful even in their ruined state. It is impossible to imagine people with no modern tools and machinery building such magnificent structures that have lasted hundreds of years.

The nave and the north aisle are incredible to stand in. You feel very small as you walk through the arches and marvel and the skill that went in to creating a structure like this. Of course the girls just thought it was fun to play in the "tunnel".

Our favorite part of Jerpoint Abbey, though, was the size of the Cloister Garth (the open green space in the center). It is much larger than many and the girls had a great time running around, peeking through the round arches and hopping over low walls. Be sure to climb the stairs beside the tower for a beautiful view down into the cloister. And a great game can be made of finding the grotesques- like this little guy:

If you are heading in to Kilkenny Town from Jerpoint Abbey try to find Clara Castle, a 15th century national monument. It is located 4.5mi/7km east of Kilkenny, reached on a minor road which branches left off the N10. It is an unusually well-preserved six-story tower house which still has the original oak beams, giving an excellent impression of the character of a fortified dwelling of the period. Among features of particular interest are the forecourt, a passage with a "murder hole" (a hole in the roof through which intruders could be pelted with missiles), a fine fireplace and a secret room.

Now, we missed the road; there is supposed to be a small sign (but maybe it is only visible if you are coming from Kilkenny Town?) According to resources there should be signs to follow along the minor road, as well. And, according to Frommer's you can request a key from the Murphys who live in the first house past the castle on the right.

Clara Castle is an open site and currently has no entry fee.

Read more...