Salem, Massachusetts: More Than Witches

Once in a while traveling with kids and off season can keep you from doing the things a town is famous for. Because, when you think Salem, you think witches. It's automatic. Kind of like baseball & hot dogs. So when we ventured north of Boston to Salem I fully expected to be taking in some witchy fun.

In fact, it's difficult to avoid the witches as the Heritage Trail is marked with these lovely ladies. From the Witch Museum to the Witch House, the wax museum to Witch Village, and the multitude of tours it's difficult to escape the witches. Many of these attractions were either closed for the season (which begins in May and ends just after Halloween) or we were warned against taking our daughters in as they would probably become frightened.

This statue, despite it's frightful appearance (and the fact it stands directly outside the Witch Museum) is not actually a witch but is Master Roger Conant, who led the first settlers to Salem in 1626.

Upon settling in Salem, then called Naumkeag which means "the fishing place" in the language of the local Native Americans, the settlers made their living from the sea. Maritime industry expanded and flourished for almost 200 years.

In 1628 Naumkeag was renamed Salem which, ironically, means "place of peace".

We arrived in Salem late in the morning, found a parking spot very near NPS Visitor Center where we grabbed a map and visitor information. The visitor center is filled with information about Salem and the surrounding area and is staffed by the National Park Service. There is a children's area near the rear- they can add thier artwork to the "Fish & Ships" wall. For older kids ask about the Junior Ranger Activity Booklet to earn a badge by following in the footsteps of Elias Hasket Derby and Nathaniel Hawthorne.

We left the visitor's center as the girls began complaining about being hungry. Just across Essex was The Old Spot. We chose to sit in the pub (there is also a dining room) to enjoy our lunch.


I highly recommend the fish & chips; the hamburger the girls shared was perfectly done. My mom got the fish sandwich and was disappointed- it was mostly bun. The desserts were fabulous! The brownie sundae was big enough for the girls and I to share and Doug raved about the spotted dick.

Fully fortified we set out to explore the town. Following the Heritage Trail we passed many witch related sites, restaurants and shops, explored the Common and set out for Salem Harbor.

We stopped at the Maritime National Historic Site where the girls tried dressing as sailors.

We viewed the Friendship of Salem, walked along the wharf and saw both the Customs House and the Derby House, the oldest brick house in Salem.

We did a bit of shopping at Witch Way Gifts (quite a fun shop! We found great gifts and souvenirs)on our way to the House of the Seven Gables.







This was, quite honestly, the highlight of our time in Salem. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable, and we were lead through every nook and cranny of this house; up through a fireplace and into the attic! This tour is a "must do" in my opinion!

Also on this property are the counting house- with play area- and the house where Nathaniel Hawthorne, who wrote The House of the Seven Gables and The Scarlet Letter, was born.

For more on the House of the Seven Gables visit my post at UpTake Attractions.

Back near the center of town you'll find the Old Burying Point Cemetery and the Witch Trials Memorial.

You'll also see the Peabody Essex Museum, one of the largest museums in the nation. This complex will take a day (at least) to explore, separate from Salem. The 200 year old Yin Yu Tang Chinese House looked amazing from the outside and the art museum is ranked as one of the nation's top 10 for children. This is definitely on our "must do" for a future visit.

To the west a few blocks is the McIntire Historic District, a walking trail named for Samuel McIntire who designed some of Salem's most distinctive houses.

Getting to Salem:

Though we didn't get to take it I'm going to recommend the Salem Ferry as a relaxing and enjoyable day trip from Boston. I wish it had been operating while we were there; we took commuter ferries into Boston and enjoyed the smooth, quick ride.

The MBTA commuter rail connects to Salem via Boston's North Station, Newburyport, Rockport and Gloucester.

If you are driving directions can be found here: Salem.org.

Where to Stay:

Because we were staying in Scituate we didn't expereince any of the local lodging. Salem offers hotels, bed & breakfasts, camping and dormitories.

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Our Stay in Scituate, Massachusetts (Boston's South Shore)

We were lucky enough to be able to accompany my husband to the Boston area while he was working out here. For 9 weeks we lived in a beautiful house just steps from the ocean in Scituate (pronounced sit-U-it).

We found Ocean Perch (I just love a house with a name) at HomeAway.com. After seeing the photos of the house and sending Doug on a scouting mission to make sure the photos didn't lie (they didn't!) we secured the house to be our "home away from home".

I am hesitant to use the word cozy to describe this house as it can tend to give off a "small" vibe. But this house is cozy. We settled in easily as this rental has all the comforts of home- comfy bedrooms, a washer and dryer, a fully equipped kitchen and a grill on the back porch. The only thing it was missing was internet access. Luckily we were able to take care of that ourselves.

There is one bathroom with a shower only. Pam (the owner), knowing we had small children, installed a very nice mounted removable shower head for us to use. All towels and linens are provided.

As are beach towels, lawn chairs, small coolers, beach toys, rafts and any other summer item you can think of (they are stored under the enclosed porch). Really, this house is stocked with whatever you may need. And Pam is just a phone call away if you ever need anything. She was a great help during our stay- suggesting sites and dropping off information (and brownies!) for us.

Ocean Perch can be difficult to find- especially if you try to map it online as the small towns run together. The easiest way to reach Ocean Perch is to take highway 3 south from Boston. Take exit 12 (Hwy 139) east. Turn left at the second stoplight (there is a Roche Brother's grocery store on one corner and a school on the other)- this is Furnace. Follow Furnace to Ferry. Turn left. Ferry is quite curvy; just stay on the main road. Ferry will end at Bridgwaye restaurant. Turn right, across the bridge. You are now on Humarock. Turn left at the 4-way (if you continue forward you will hit the ocean) and follow that road (Central) about a mile. Newport St. is well marked; you can only turn right. Ocean Perch is the second house. (This map can help you find your way.)

Obviously you will need a car if you stay anywhere outside of the city. I posted previously about car rentals outside the US but many of those tips work if you are in the US as well. Renting a car at Logan airport will cost you twice the amount of any other location in the Boston area. My advice: take the subway to Quincy Center or Quincy Adams or the harbor ferry into Quincy. Coordinate with the rental company to pick you up (Enterprise will do this, ask others as they may accommodate you.) To get to both the subway and the ferry catch the 66 bus at all terminals outside the baggage claim.

I have created a map to help you find the locations I mention below. Ocean Perch is marked on the map with a star, to help you get your bearings.

Things to Do

You're staying in a house only steps from the beach. My best guess is that you plan to spend much of your time on the beach.

But if you can tear yourself away from the ocean here are some great day trips and other fun stuff:

• Cohasset, a village to the north, has beautiful homes perched on the ocean and cute shops on Main Street.
• Plymouth. Amazing American history so close by.

• Scituate. Walk along the beach below the lighthouse; play in the playground by the "castle"; see the catch being unloaded on the working harbor then walk along Front Street.
• Boston (article coming soon) is an easy commuter rail, subway or commuter boat ride away.
  Quincy is an easy car ride away. The Adams National Historical Park opened the weekend we left. It looks amazing- if you like history (and we do!).
• If you decide to try out other beaches know that many require parking stickers. You can find beach information here and here.
  
• If the weather is nasty and the kids need to burn off energy spend a few hours at Scalliwags in Pembroke. Climbing, jumping, and sliding; a toddler area; an arcade. Free Wi-Fi and food to order.
  

Dining

As I mentioned, Ocean Perch has a fully equipped kitchen. Almost as well equipped as my own; I was able to make our meals easily. (A few of the meals I made: Homemade Cheeseburger Pizza, Unfried Chicken & Popcorn Cauliflower, Grilled Chicken with Sesame Noodles and Finnish Baked Pancakes.)

To stock the kitchen we visited three grocery stores:

• Village Market in Scituate Harbor:a small neighborhood store. Deals in natural foods, though you can find many other foods, too. A nice wine & beer selection.
• Roche Brothers in Marshfield: a specialty grocery with a large selection of cheeses, fresh meats & seafood, a very nice deli and nice selection of international foods.
• Super Stop & Shop in Pembroke: a mega-grocery with practically anything you could need. No frills, prices here are less than the other stores.
• For your convenience: a small convenience store is located just across the bridge in Marshfield, across from Polcari's Bridgwaye Inn. You'll be able to get any "last minute" items here easily.
  

Of course you are on vacation... There are plenty of restaurants, a few within walking distance. The following restaurants are where we ate while visiting. There are, of course, many others.

Within walking distance:

• Mad Fish Bar & Grill: this is located just down the road from Ocean Perch. Friendly service, good food; try the Herb Baked Haddock and the Shrimp Scampi. In the summer the outdoor patio is open for dining. The portions are large and they have a kids menu.
  
• Sands End Cafe & General Store: Located at the intersection of Central and Marshfield Rd, just as you enter Humarock. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. Open weekend evenings April thru November, open all day beginning around Memorial Day thru Labor Day. Live entertainment Friday and Saturday evenings April-November. Filling breakfasts (try the linguica), a large variety of sandwiches and yummy burgers, seafood & salads, large pizzas and a kids menu. Beers and wines available for purchase.
• Polcari's Bridgwaye Inn: just across the bridge from Humarock. More elegant dining but kid friendly. A large menu selection featuring seafood, pastas and pizza. A very nice kids menu and brick oven pizzas. Also open for lunch with a large selection of sandwiches as well.
  
• Dockside Donuts: a great little shop, next to the convenience store and across from Bridgwaye restaurant. Donuts, bagels & muffins. Very good coffee. Also serves hot sandwiches for lunch.

A short drive:

• T.K. O'Malley's Sports Cafe : Located in Scituate Harbor. Part restaurant, part sports bar, completely beautiful views of the harbor. Very good food, a nice children's menu.


• The Garlic: in Marshfield. Country style Italian food. Warm, crusty bread. We ate here twice, both times the food was great, the service was good. BUT... this is not a "fast" restaurant. Be prepared as your meal is freshly made for you- not "waiting around" to be heated. Gorgonzola Filet Mignon was possibly one of the best filets I've had in a long time, Spuntitori Italiano was enough food for two and delicious- my daughters devoured the meatballs. Daily specials and a dessert tray that is hard to resist.
• PJ's Country House & Restaurant: in Scituate, on Hwy 3A. More elegant dining in the restaurant, casual fare in the pub. Very good food, not a kids restaurant though they do have a children's menu. Known for their Baked Finnian Haddie, which Doug said was very good. They also have take-out during regular hours.
• Friendly's: my girls' favorite! Each meal ends with ice cream! Multiple locations, we ate at the one in Pembroke (across from Stop & Shop).
  
• British Beer Company: various locations, we visited the one in Pembroke. A fun British Pub ambiance with good food. Flaky fish in a light beer batter served with chips. The specials are varied and quite good.

• Bertucci's: multiple locations, we visited the one in Braintree. Great Italian food, brick oven pizzas. Great fun for kids as they are given a ball of pizza dough to play with!
  
• Tedeschi Food Shops: Many locations, I have mapped the one in Marshfield. This is a great place to get sandwiches if you're planning a road trip or a picnic by the beach.
• Ming Dynasty: Two locations, one in Marshfield, the other in Plymouth. We ate at the Plymouth location and encountered bad service and mediocre food.
  

Shopping

When you're on vacation shopping has a tendency to top the list of "must do". You want a souvenir or two, yes?

• The closest gift shop is right as you enter Humarock: Humming Rock Gifts is on the right, just over the bridge.
• Following Summer Street toward Scituate is the Donna Green Studio. Donna Green has done one of the most beautifully illustrated copies of The Velveteen Rabbit I have ever seen. Stop in and browse her store. Don't miss the amazing mosaic on the floor. At the very least pick up a rabbit and a book. Donna will even sign them for you.
  
• Just around the curve past the Donna Green Studio is Marshfield Hills. A sign points up the hill to the General Store. They have staple items, some trinkets and plenty of time to chat about the area. The owner may not be so knowledgeable about the area but he'll definitely look familiar. He's not there often; the store is really in his sister-in-law's hands.
  
• Scituate Harbor's Front Street (where T.K. O'Malley's, listed above, is located) is lined with great shops. Trinkets, clothing, wines, music... Anything you might need- or not know you need- you'll find it here.
• Hanover Mall is close by if you need clothing or WalMart. Or an indoor play area for the kids. Also in this area is Trader Joe's. There is a very good Chinese restaurant here. Not your typical "mall" Chinese food.
  
• South Shore Plaza in Braintree has shops that include H&M, Godiva and the Disney Store.
• This is a small smattering of the shopping available. Every small town you pass through on your wanderings will have its own shops.

Getting into Boston

The very best way, in my opinion, to get into Boston is via the commuter ferry from Quincy Harbor. It's quick and relaxing and you land in the North End.

Closer to the rental house is the commuter rail station in Greenbush. This will take you into Quincy where you can catch the subway. For the greatest flexibility of return times drive into Braintree or Quincy, park and catch the subway there.

Wish You Were Here

Just behind the Sands End Cafe is the Humarock Post Office. John and Bruce, the postmasters, are a great wealth of information. They'll answer any questions you have. Stop in, mail your postcards and chat for a while.

Guides to the South Shore

Moms and Dads Guide

Kidding Around the South Shore

South Shore Visitors Guide

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Cohasset, Massachusetts, USA

Cohasset, Massachusetts is a small sea side town which, honestly, won’t take you long to tour if you’re in a car. You may, in fact, end up in Scituate or Hull and not realize it until a sign alerts you.

That said, Cohasset is a lovely town and the magnificent sea side homes make a leisurely drive through town worthwhile.

It was suggested to us (by our postmaster in Humarock) that we visit the harbor to view the duplicate top of the Minot’s Ledge Lighthouse. As the closest you can get to the actual lighthouse is by boat this is the next best thing. The little park also has a historical plaque, a monument to two lighthouse keepers lost during a storm and a couple of large bells. Very interesting are the circular forms used for fitting the pieces of the lighthouse together before it was permanently assembled at sea.


One note on the park: when we were there we encountered a lot of dog poo. In fact we encountered a lot of dog poo at every park we visited in the Boston area. I am not sure if this is common (we never observed anyone pick up poo after their dog made a “deposit”) or if it was due to the time of year (February-April, after winter). I will just say to watch your step in the parks.

Cohasset has many beautiful beaches, the most beautiful we saw being Sandy Beach. This beach is open to all but parking is by permit only. (This is common all along the South Shore. I found two great beach resource guides: South Shore Moms & Dads and Plymouth County’s website to help you find a beach with public parking.) I have no idea where you should park if you are not a resident…

We stopped in to French Memories Bakery for a pastry before wandering the village center. We did some window shopping at the three real estate brokers along South Main Street before wandering into Carmela Drew Fine Foods where we were heartily welcomed by co-owner Michelle Rizzo and her mother (Rizzo’s sister is also co-owner and her father bakes cookies specially for the shop. He makes a mean oatmeal chocolate chip.) This gem of a shop has fine cheeses, an amazing array of specialty foods & products, entrees & side dishes to take with you and even provides catering.

Carmela Drew is housed in the Samuel Bates House (as is Bia Bistro) and has two vacation rental units above it that we walked through. (The smaller of the two is listed here. I would inquire about the larger, 2 level unit if you need more space.) On the other side of Carmela Drew is Atlantic Bagels, which I have heard is the best bagel place outside of New York City. Having not had a bagel in New York City I’ll have to believe this until I learn otherwise.

Cohasset town center isn’t terribly large and it’s not a day-long destination unless you have plans to visit the beach. But it’s a great little stop if you’re touring the South Shore.

If you have a desire for Asian Food I suggest a stop at Feng Shui, on highway 3A. Located in a strip mall the restaurant was a surprise to us when we walked in as it was much nicer than the exterior led us to believe. The restaurant is quite kid friendly- the girls’ chocolate milks came with umbrellas which amused them to no end. The Feng Shui Sampler with shrimp, crab Rangoon, boneless spare ribs, beef skewers, chicken fingers, chicken wings & eggs rolls –which Doug ordered a double- was more food than we needed. The addition of my Orange Chicken and Doug’s Crispy Duck left us with enough food for the next day’s lunch. I also planned ahead, knowing my girls would be “done” after the appetizer, and ordered this kid friendly dessert. Feng Shui also has sushi & sashimi (the Feng Shui Love Boat is huge) and we fully intend to return for their buffet (available for lunch throughout the week and on Sunday evenings).

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