Gastropub Dinner with Irish Celebrity Chef Kevin Dundon at Raglan Road in Kansas City

I'm pretty sure that celebrity chef dinners happen quite often in places like Los Angeles and New York. And maybe even in Chicago. But it's not really something that happens in the center of the country so when I saw that one of my favorite Kansas City restaurants, Raglan Road, was hosting a Gastropub Dinner with Master Chef Kevin Dundon (Ireland's Chef of the Year 2009) we made the drive down for dinner.

Yes, we drove 3 hours- one way- for dinner. And drove back that night. Yes, it was worth it!

Kevin and his wife Catherine own and operate the incredible Dunbrody Country House Hotel in Arthurstown, County Wexford, Ireland. (It is, incidentally, across the road from Glendine House, where we stayed in 2008.)

We were lucky enough to meet Kevin briefly before dinner and again after the meal. It's no wonder his hotel is so highly rated: the man exudes Irish charm. And he can cook! Our meal was incredible! Forget what impressions you may have of Irish food- this isn't typical "pub grub"...

Our four course meal began with a choice of Warm Goat Cheese and Orange Salad with Caramelized Walnuts or Mini Beef and Lamb Shepherds Pie with a Port Wine Jus. I can't speak about the salad, though it looked incredible, because everyone at my table had the Shepherds Pie. The flavors of the meats with the port wine jus...fabulous. I loved the presentation of the potatoes artfully balanced on top with a caramelized onion leaf. Delish!

The second course was Maine Lobster Bisque. I'm not a huge fan of lobster but the bisque was very flavorful and creamy. Of course the presentation was incredible...

The entree followed. The choices were Roast Pork Belly with an Irish Mist and Honey Glaze served with Pickled Cabbage or Crispy Pan Seared Salmon served on a Ragout of Winter Vegetables. I chose the pork belly. I cut it with a butter knife. It was so tender and flavorful. The glaze was so sweet- I'm going to have to do my best to recreate it. Doug had the salmon. He pronounced it perfectly prepared and "excellent".


And then came dessert. Merely calling the Chocolate Fondant with Irish Stout Ice Cream "dessert" is almost too plain. Though it appeared unassuming on sight there is really no way to describe the incredible richness of the chocolate, how the surface opened to reveal an interior of molten chocolate or how truly decadent it was.

The Gastropub Dinners at Raglan Road just began in summer 2009 but response has been positive and the restaurant plans to do more- one per quarter at each restaurant (there is another location at Pleasure Island in Downtown Disney, Orlando, Florida.) To keep up to date on upcoming events check out the "Get In Here" page on Raglan Road's website or follow @RaglanRoadPub on Twitter.

If you're really wanting a taste of Ireland try some of Kevin Dundon's recipes for yourself! The mini shepherds pie recipe is in the "starters" section, there is a lovely loin of bacon in Irish Mist glaze in the "mains", and an Irish whiskey chocolate fondant in the "desserts". I have a feeling my annual St. Patrick's feast may have some new dishes this year! Sláinte!

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Doolin- Harbour View B&B and Gus O'Connor's Pub- and the Burren

Our final days in Ireland were spent in the wonderful rooms of Harbour View B&B in Doolin.

Harbour View is a purpose built B&B and all I can say is: what a great job they did! You can tell just how much thought went in to making this an inviting guest house. The rooms are spacious and comfortable with large en suite bathrooms. All rooms are on the ground level and many have a great view looking over the town and out to the ocean. Cathy Normoyle, your gracious hostess, says you can see the Aran Islands on a clear day. (We didn't have a clear day when we were there so I can't claim to have seen them). Most of the bedrooms sleep two and a couple even sleep three. The beds were very comfortable and a cot is available upon request. All rooms have coffee and tea service and a lovely sitting area for gazing out the large windows at the breathtaking view.

Upon entering you will see an inviting sitting area with a large TV and fireplace. When we were there Cathy's beautiful son was enjoying Nickelodeon- my girls hadn't seen Dora in almost a week; they were overjoyed!

The dining area is through the sitting room and toward the back of the house. It is a lovely open room with a center buffet of cereals, cheeses, yogurts, fresh baked breads or scones, milk and juice. Cathy serves a full Irish breakfast that will keep your energy up well in to the afternoon. There is no highchair available, so be sure to bring your trusty travel booster.

Harbour View is an easy hour from the Shannon airport so it makes a great final location for your travels and Doolin is a wonderful base for touring the Burren.

Burren is derived from the Irish word boirreann, meaning a rocky place and, well, the description is spot on. I actually joked with Doug that this is the place they grow the rocks for all the stone fences in Ireland.

Plan the better part of a day to meander through the rocky landscape. You'll want to stop at Polnabrone Dolmon and marvel at the strength it must have taken to maneuver the rocks into position. The sheer size of this tomb is difficult to imagine until you stand beside it. This is the most accessible dolmon in the Burren so you may see a lot of tour buses. They don't stay long and tend to be on similar schedules so wait them out for a less crowded self tour.

The Burren has hundreds of megalithic wedge tombs, dolmons and ring forts, so a visit to Burren National Park is worth your while.

A great stop while in the Burren is Lisdoonvarna, famous for it's matchmaking festival every September and the Spa Wells Heath Center with it's Victorian pump room.

If you haven't viewed any round towers the Kilmacduagh Monastery near Gort should definately be on your list. Even if you have the history of the settlement and the legends that surround it are worth your time. A note from the linked website: Visitor's are encouraged to begin their exploration by walking over to Tower View Villa B&B across the street to get the master key for the locks on the buildings. There is a 5 deposit and a short history of the site is available from the innkeeper, Lily, for 2.50. Grab a copy of this guide before getting started. It will be invaluable as you wander through the buildings.

Once back in Doolin you have quite a few amusements to keep you occupied. I highly recommend at least one evening at Gus O'Connor's Pub. If you visit during high season you'll find music every night. Otherwise you may have to wait until the weekend. But Doolin is known for it's traditional Irish music so you won't be disappointed. The musicians sit in a booth- it's called a session- which makes it very informal and easy to join in. There is no set time so try some of the best fish & chips I've ever tasted or the huge bowl of steamed mussels, grab a pint, join in the craic and relish in a true pub experience.

Because it is a pub you will not be waited on. Head up to the bar to make your drink and food orders (and to grab menus) and chat with the bartender.

If you have nice weather spend some time wandering through Doolin and stopping in the craft and jewelry shops. And don't pass by the music shops- this is the heart of Irish traditional music.

If you are heading to the Cliffs of Moher from Doolin you will surely see Doonagore Castle on the edge of town.

This gorgeous 16th century tower house is privately owned and, therefore, not open to the public. It's absolutely stunning and on a sunny day the reflection from the tiles on the conical roof are brilliant.

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More from the Cliffs of Moher

March 2008 marked my third trip to the Cliffs of Moher. Many things have changed since I first visited in 2002 and even since our visit in 2005.

A new visitor's center has been built in to the hillside, almost seamlessly blending in to the surroundings.

A short market street of six craftworker units leads you to the entrance.

The new visitor center includes the Atlantic Edge exhibition, an interactive interpretive center, with incredible information about the cliffs as well as a great "yellow submarine" play area, a gift shop and two restaurants. The girls had a great time exploring while we adults marveled that people would lower themselves over the cliffs to catch birds. There is great history and information about the cliffs. It is well worth the cost of admission (€4 per adult when we visited). And be sure to pick up a Map Pack when you buy your tickets. It's a great little packet of information about the cliffs and a wonderful souvenir.

Inside the Atlantic Edge is The Ledge- a virtual reality cliff face adventure. The first time I visited the Cliffs of Moher you could actually walk out on the sheer ledge. That area is now a protected area for cliff nesting sea birds. I have a bit of video from The Ledge. You may experience vertigo...

Our visit this year was very cold, very windy (Caelan's hat was actually pulled from her head) and we had to dodge both rains coming in from the sea and sea water that was blowing up and over the cliffs. You can barely hear my voice in the video as the wind is so strong...

The Cliffs of Moher are quite safe for children as the edges are protected from us (and we from them) by stone walls that are waist high on an average adult. Much higher for a small child.

Paths are all paved and accessible to wheelchairs- if you have someone willing to puch you up the hill. It is steep. But you can get a great view without climbing all the way up to O'Brien's Tower. The viewing platforms are quite nice and have spyglasses for up close viewing of the rocks, flora and birds. On a nice day you can even spy the Aran Islands.

The Cliffs of Moher never disappoint and every visit is different than the one before. Definately a "must" if you are in County Clare.

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More Getting Around Ireland

I believe you don't drive through Ireland so much as you hurtle. Merriam-Webster defines hurtle as : to move rapidly or forcefully. And, quite honestly, when you are driving down roads like this you don't have to be going very fast to feel like you are going way too fast.

But I love driving in Ireland and can't honestly imagine seeing the country any other way. Many roads on your journey will be narrow and lined by hedgerows or stone fences and meeting another vehicle while traveling on them can require quick reflexes and the ability to squeeze your car as close to the edge of the road without causing damage. In some cases it may require you to actually back up to a wider part of the road so the oncoming traffic can pass.

Of course Ireland is not all scenic roads dotted with sheep farms and stone fences. You can quickly get from one end of Ireland to the other using very modern highways. For the Irish romantic (like me) it is a shame to see the modernization but for the Irish it is most welcome.

For the most part we stayed on the by-ways as discovering Ireland's uniqueness is often the best part of our trip. We saw many signs like this:

And let me just tell you that the road was just that sharply angled. Those signs don't lie.

My favorite road sign, by far, was this one just past the Cliffs of Moher on our way in to Doolin:

What you don't see is the sign just before it raising the speed limit to 100kph. It was quite funny.

Driving along the more scenic -and smaller- roads will definately take you longer in terms of time but it will also provide you many more memories than the fast paced highways.

More from me about driving in Ireland:
Getting Around Ireland
A Bit About Car Rentals in Europe

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More Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, County Clare, Ireland

Bunratty Castle and Folk Park has something for everyone. The castle is one of the best restored in Ireland and you can go up to the roof top battlements and look over the "kingdom". The folk park if great fun in the sun or rain.

As we have been to Bunratty before you will want to review this post. This time I bring you video tours.

First, the castle:

And now the folk park:

If you are anywhere near Shannon with kids Bunratty should definitely be on your list of things to do.

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Out From Killarney

Since I had been to Killarney and County Kerry previously I had things in mind that I wanted to share with my family. And, of course, there were many things we didn't do. These are just a few other activities close to Killarney.

Ring of Kerry

The Iveraugh peninsula is probably the most traveled area in Ireland. And it is beautiful. But take my advice and avoid it. Yes, a bus tour is nice but your kids will get very bored very quickly. I did as a adult. If you choose to drive the Ring of Kerry you are suggested to travel anti-clockwise (the same way as the tour buses). Skip it. The "ring" is very commercialized.

Try either the Dingle Peninsula, which has stone age forts, oratories and bee hive monk's homes (and a resident dolphin), or the Beara Peninsula with it's walking paths and ancient archaeological sites. Both have the rugged beauty people surge to the Ring of Kerry for but neither has the crazy amount of tour buses.

The Gap of Dunloe

The Gap of Dunloe is about 5 miles out of Killarney. It is, as it's name suggests, a "gap" between two mountain ranges and was, for centuries, the main trade route into Killarney. Motorized traffic is forbidden (unless you actually live in the gap, so jaunting carts are available for hire. There is also a 40 or 60 mile bike loop from Killarney if cycling is more your thing.

Sculpture Road

Heading out of Killarney on the Cork Road (N22) you can't help but notice the carved rocks along the road way. Be sure to keep your eyes open for the rearing unicorn on a cliff edge near Clonkeen. It's magnificnet.

Kerry Glass Studio & Visitor Center

If you love Kerry glass be sure to visit this studio. To see glass being blown is incredible. There is also a shop because you're gonna want a souvenier.

Crag Cave

If you are an family of adventurers this underground wonderland may be for you. This is a great stop if you have older an younger children because they have an indoor play area to keep the little ones entertained while the older children explore.

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Killarney for Kids: Killarney National Park, Ross Castle and Muckross House, Friary and Traditional Farms

We spent 4 days and 3 nights around Killarney. There is a reason this is one of Ireland's tourist hot-spots - there is so much to do! We didn't even scratch the surface. Kid friendly doesn't even begin to describe all you can do in and around Killarney.

Killarney National Park is Ireland's first national park. It came into being in 1932 when the Muckross Estate was gifted to Ireland by Senator Arthur Vincent and his parents-in-law Mr. and Mrs. William Bowers Bourn, in memory of his late wife Maud.

The National Park covers over 25,000 acres of mountains, moors, woods, lakes and rivers, parks and gardens. There are many entries into the park within and outside of Killarney and a nice day will have the paths filled with walkers and bikers. (Bikes are available for rent in Killarney at Kerry Bike Hire or Killarney Rent a Bike.) We chose to get an overview of the park by taking a ride in a jaunting cart. Automobiles are not allowed inside the park.

Jaunting carts gather on Kenmare Place in Killarney. This is a main roundabout on the edge of Killareny's tourist district (just in front of Lir Cafe & Chocolates); you won't miss it. Our driver, Martin (who, quite incidentally, took me on my first jaunting cart tour of Killarney National Park in 2003), was a wealth of information during our ride through the park and stopped for photo opps. (He and his wife also own a B&B on Ross Road).

Your jaunting cart tour will take you through a portion of the park, past a large public playground, and to Ross Castle on Lough Leane (the Lake of Learning).

Ross Castle is a 15th century tower house and was one of the last strongholds in the region to surrender to Oliver Cromwell in 1652. It has been restored and is furnished in the style of the 16th and 17th centuries. Guided tours are available mid-March thru late November.

If you picnic near Ross Castle save bits of bread or crackers for the ducks and swans that inhabit Lough Leane year round. They'll come right to the edge of the lake to say hi. My girls were fascinated with the "birdies".

Ross Castle is an OPW Heritage site. An OPW Hertiage Card card covers many of Ireland's greatest sites and is good for one year from date of purchase. It can be purchased at any OPW site, the Dublin or Shannon airports and certain tourist offices.

Lough Leane was given it's name because of the monastery that sits on it's largest island, Innisfallen. Built in the 7th century and occupied for nearly 700 years this is where the 'Annals of Innisfallen', a cronicle of early Irish history, was written. If you wish to investigate the ruins on Innisfallen rowboats are available for rent at the castle.

The Muckross Estate is the center of Killarney National Park and is a great place to begin the day.

We first drove out Kenmare Road (N71) and parked at an entrance to the park near Muckross Abbey. There will likely be jaunting carts here but decline and enjoy the short stroll. This is a great ruin to explore as you can climb the narrow spiral staircases into the upper levels for great views of the lakes. A large yew tree fills the cloister court. At the edge of the cloister you will also see this terrific tile map of the Abbey:

Take time to explore the church yard as many Irish notables are laid here- including The McCarthy Mor, king of Munster (he's in the chancel).

From here you can walk to Muckross House or return to your car and drive another mile down the road to the main entrance. Muckross House is open year round, while its Traditional Farms are open late March thru October.

Muckross Estate is an OPW Heritage site. An OPW Hertiage Card card covers many of Ireland's greatest sites and is good for one year from date of purchase. It can be purchased at any OPW site, the Dublin or Shannon airports and certain tourist offices.

The tour of Muckross House, a breathtaking 19th century Victorian mansion, is well worth your time. Small children may become bored about half way through so my recommendation is to take separate tours- one parent tours inside while the other parent tours the gardens with the children. (if you do take your kids on the tour the guides are most gracious and give special attention to your little ones.)

Where my daughters didn't become bored, however, were on the grounds of Muckross Estate and in the gardens. Outside the front entrance (seen above) you will find more jaunting carts. This is a great place to catch a ride if you haven't been on one yet. Otherwise just stroll the grounds. From here you have a great yard that nestles up to Middle Lake. Around back you will find an amazing rock garden filled with stone paths and benches. It's a great place to explore and look for faeries.

If the kids get tired of exploring there they will surely love the maze garden just down the hill.

After playing and touring take a break in the Walled Garden Center and visit the craft shop, view weavers and potters, and have a quick snack (or lunch) in the restaurant.

Then venture over to Muckross Traditional Farms. Visit three working farms and the people that were necessary to make them work. The time span for the farms is the 1930's and 40's when then main power was horses and the day ended when the sun went down.

If you're up for a bit more exploring you can walk or drive (a bit farther down the N71) to Torc Waterfall. It may not be the biggest waterfall you've ever seen but it is set in such a beautiful location that you'll want to take your photo in front of it.

More Killarney for Kids:
Shopping
Mystical Rose B&B, Dining & Handy Hints
Kennedy's Animal, Bird & Pet Farm

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Killarney for Kids: Kennedy's Animal, Bird and Pet Farm

Not far out from Killarney (about 5 miles) along the N22 is Kennedy's Animal, Bird and Pet Farm. We spent an afternoon there with the girls playing on the outdoor and indoor playgrounds, petting animals and having fun.

Kennedy's has dozens of animals: sheep and goats, horses and deer, puppies and rabbits, all sorts of fowl from chickens to peacocks and so many more. Most are friendly and will gladly follow you around if you give them a scratch on the nose (as we found with the deer- they were our constant companions during our time at the farm).

Kennedy's has a large outdoor play area with swings, slides and forts, a huge indoor area with a maze, sand pit, riding toys, swings and slides and a toddler play area (also indoors). There are buses that have been converted to seating areas and a few restrooms scatted throughout the property.

This was definitely a welcomed break for the girls from the castles and abbeys we had been touring.

Although we didn't lodge there Kennedy's has three self catering holiday homes for weekly rental. With a view of the mountains and accessibility to the animals and playground this would definitely qualify as a children's paradise.

More Killarney for Kids:
Shopping
Mystical Rose B&B, Dining and Handy Hints
Killarney National Park, Ross Castle and Muckross House, Friary and Traditional Farms

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Killarney for Kids: Mystical Rose B&B, Dining and Handy Hints

We spent 4 days and 3 nights around Killarney. There is a reason this is one of Ireland's tourist hot-spots - there is so much to do! We didn't even scratch the surface. Kid friendly doesn't even begin to describe all you can do in and around Killarney.

We had actually planned to spend our time in Killarney at a B&B/riding stable just outside of town. I had made my reservation online and had it confirmed through the booking agency. I was not, however, able to reach anyone at the B&B itself until the day before we were to arrive. Imagine my surprise when I was told that they were not open (due to circumstances beyond their control) and had not received notice of my reservation. That left us scrambling for a 3 day reservation the evening before arriving in Killarney. Handy tip: always get a confirmation via email from the B&B itself. Even better, call and speak to the owner to confirm your arrival before you leave on vacation.

Happily, I was able to get a reservation on very short notice at Noreen O'Mahoney's Mystical Rose Country Home. Mystical Rose is Frommer's recommended and Noreen has received Irish Welcome Certificates of Merit from Falite Ireland (by nomination submitted by happy travelers).

Noreen is the friendliest hostess I have ever encountered. She went above and beyond to make our daughters comfortable and help us with anything we needed during our stay. Noreen knows everyone in Killarney (it seems) and can steer you in the right direction for any need you may have.

Mystical Rose has six rooms, all ensuite and quite cozy, with televisions, hair dryers and a desk/dressing table. Noreen will provide a cot upon request. She did not have a high chair when we visited so be sure to remember your travel booster if you have a little one. (Although she may have a booster of her own soon as she was quite impressed with ours!)

Noreen serves an generous Irish breakfast in the mornings accompanied by toast and brown bread, coffee or tea and orange juice. She made wonderful pancakes (thin like a crepe) for the girls that were melt-in-your-mouth delish.

Noreen is full of wonderful stories about Killarney and can set you up on any tour you would like to take (like I said, she knows practically everyone) and give you great advice on what to see. She's also great with kids. Our first morning Brenna had finished her breakfast long before the rest of us. Noreen had just been telling Brenna about her horse and Brenna, loving horses, wanted to see it. So Noreen took her along to feed the horse. She went out of her way and made a little girl's day. (Brenna still talks about the horses.)

Mystical Rose Country Home is within walking distance of Killarney's tourist center- about a 15-20 minute walk- a nice stroll that will save you the hassle of finding a parking spot during busy tourist seasons.


Laundry to Do? If you checked out my packing post you know that we packed clothes for four days and planned to do laundry. Noreen had us go to Gleeson Laundrette on Brewery Lane. It's a tiny bit of a "street" (more like an alley, really) just across from where the jaunting carts line up on Kenmare Place and around the corner from Lir Cafe and Chocolates. If you don't know it's there you'll miss it...

I was able to drop my laundry off in the morning and pick it up in the evening. It was washed, dried and folded. I had a huge pullman full of clothes and I paid €24 to have it done. And we didn't lose any sightseeing time.

Dining

There is no lack of dining in Killarney. You can find anything and everything here. Just remember that dining out is expensive... And dining at one of the nicer restaurants is even more so. Especially in a town that thrives on tourism.

One of the first things Brenna saw as we entered Killarney was a McDonalds. Yep, McDonalds. There is also a Burger King. And, yes, we had Happy Meals one night. It made the girls happy which is always a big plus.

Another evening we ate at Allegro on Plunkett Street. It's a sit-down fast food type restaurant that serves fish and chips, pizza, burgers and fried chicken. A bit of something for everyone. It was inexpensive and, if you want, they can deliver to some areas.

One place you will definitely eat in Ireland is a pub. Killarney has a plethora of pubs. On College Street you will find Murphy's of Killarney. Consisting of Murphy's Bar, Lord Kenmare's Restaurant, Squire's Bar and Murphy's Accommodatins you have a few choices. We had a pleasant dinner in Squire's Bar our final night in Killarney. They had a very nice children's menu (the girls split a plate of pasta and also munched on our dinners of Shepherd's Pie, Irish Stew and Fish & Chips). It's a great place to relax, enjoy the atmosphere and a Bulmer's.

More Killareny for Kids:
Shopping
Kennedy's Animal, Bird and Pet Farm
Killarney National Park, Ross Castle, and Muckross House, Friary and Traditional Farms

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The English Market and Farmgate Cafe, Cork, Ireland

The day we visited Cork City we had many plans for outdoor adventures. Unfortunately that is also the day that the "sunny south east" of Ireland saw snow for the first time in 15 years. So while the weather deterred us from a walking tour of Cork City it did allow us more time to explore the market and have lunch.

Here in the states we call it a "farmer's market" and it's usually a weekly event. Cork's English Market is open Monday thru Saturday 9am-5pm. Though the name is a hold-over from the days of English rule (to distinguish itself from the market for the Irish) the market is full Irish (with some great imports).

The English Market is a permanent indoor market and is surrounded by shops; it's very easy to miss one of the four entrances (off Grand Parade, Oliver Plunkett St, St. Patrick's St or Prince's St; two of those streets are foot traffic only) so be sure to look up.

Once you are inside the sights are astounding. Meats in every form, fresh fish, vegetables, fruits... Bakeries, chocolates and cheeses... One beside another the food spills forward and you can't help but stop and marvel at things you've never seen before. Crubeens (pigs feet) and tripe (stomach), buttered eggs (a Cork delicacy) and drisheens (local blood sausage) sit along side stalls offering buckets of olives and Oriental spices.

It's all very overwhelming so my humble suggestion is to wander about the stalls for a while and then head upstairs to the Farmgate Cafe. Take a minute and look down upon the central court. It's a great view for people watching.

Even if the market isn't overly busy you can count on the Farmgate Cafe to be doing a brisk business. One side is a self-service queue-to-order galley overlooking the central court and the other is a glassed-in more formal area with table service. (You may want to make a reservation if you plan to be there for lunch or high season 021/427-8134; they aren't open for dinner).

We waited for a table and ate in the full service area. The daily specials depend entirely on what is available downstairs in the market. The food is so fresh and so fabulous, definately memorable. Doug enjoyed his Shepherd's Pie, my mom raved about her Savory Tart and I wanted to bribe the chef for the Corned Beef with Mustard Parsley Sauce recipe. I have never had such tender corned beef and the sauce was so light... Absolutely wonderful.

The Farmgate Cafe is a member of GoodFoodIreland, which brings together Irish agriculture and tourism. The GoodFoodIreland website can lead you to great dining across the country.

The girls sampled bits of what we had and even with their help we were all too full to enjoy a dessert. We did, however, have enough room for a few chocolates from the shop at the bottom of the stairs.

When you gotta go: I only saw one public bathroom in the market and it was tucked back in a corner near a cheese vendor. If you enter through the center court (Oliver Plunkett St., I think) go past the steps heading up to the Farmgate Cafe. Take a left and then a quick right. It's not well marked. And have a 20 cent piece- it'll cost you to open the door.

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Kilkenny Castle, County Kilkenny, Ireland

Kilkenny Castle is the type of castle you picture in your mind. Imposing from the outside, opening to a great park at the rear and a garden with fountains at the front. Kilkenny Castle is almost like a fairy tale.

Kilkenny Castle belonged to the Butler family, the earls of Ormande from 1391 to 1967 when it was handed over to the Irish government to be painstakingly restored to its former splendor. Guided tours through the castle are available; arrive early and book ahead if you can to avoid disappointment (or naptime).

Note: Kilkenny Castle is an OPW Heritage Site. You can purchase an OPW card here for use at other OPW sites. OPW cards are good for one year from purchase.

The restoration of the castle is breathtaking; it has been refurnished with period pieces and portraits of the Butler family )as well as a King and Queen of England) and a suite of Brussles tapestries. Unfortunately no photos are allowed inside so I strongly suggest a short stop in the bookstore to pick up a visitor's guide and a few postcards.

If you don't plan ahead for a tour (because we didn't- learn from me) be sure to take in the grounds. The entrance to the grounds is through the arched gateway in the curtain wall along the Parade. (Before you enter look to the right. See if you can spot the garedrobe (toilet) chute and small Posturn Gate with stone steps that led to the moat.) This brings you into the courtyard; you are surrounded on three sides by the castle.

And laying to the east are acres of parkland. If it's sunny stop and pick up some Irish cheese and some bread for a picnic on the grounds. Bring a ball or kite. This is a perfect spot to relax and play. In fact, there is a play area for the kids with swings, climbing areas and slides.

To the west of the castle (accessible by walking around the castle or through a gate from the Parade) are the formal gardens. Obviously they are much more beautiful during the spring and summer but the girls were fascinated by the fountain.

The River Nore runs along side Kilkenny Castle and a river walk is accessible from the park.

While there are other great things to do in Kilkenney I recommend heading just south of town to the Medieval Kells Priory. Heading south on N76 from Kilkenny follow signs for r699/Callan and stay on R699 until you see signs for Kells.

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Jerpoint Abbey, County Kilkenny, Ireland

Our first stop in County Kilkenny was Jerpoint Abbey. Located just outside of Thomastown you really can't miss it as it nestles up to N9 (a major roadway). We received a great lesson on the history of Jerpoint Abbey from Sheila in the interpretive center- be sure to stop in, you will notice more as you tour the abbey.

Note: Jerpoint Abbey is an OPW Heritage Site. Admission is included with your Heritage Card. If this is your first stop you can purchase a card here for use at other OPW sites.

Jerpoint Abbey was founded about 1160, probably by the King of Ossory, and in 1180 it was colonized by Cistercian monks who followed the austere life of prayer and hard work. We were told that there was so much work that there were two sets of monks- the lay brothers who did 90% of the work and 10% of prayer and the monks who did 90% of the prayer and 10% of the work.

Most Cistercian abbeys do not have the carvings and artwork that you see around Jerpoint Abbey which suggests a break from the original rigour of the Order.

The photo below shows the cloister. This is where the monks would have slept. This is also where you will see the amazing carvings and round arches which were very ornate.

This one of a knight is especially easy to see; some are quite worn with age and time. What you may have a difficult time seeing is that little indentation to his left (the right looking head on).

It's a monkey.

Medieval abbeys are amazingly beautiful even in their ruined state. It is impossible to imagine people with no modern tools and machinery building such magnificent structures that have lasted hundreds of years.

The nave and the north aisle are incredible to stand in. You feel very small as you walk through the arches and marvel and the skill that went in to creating a structure like this. Of course the girls just thought it was fun to play in the "tunnel".

Our favorite part of Jerpoint Abbey, though, was the size of the Cloister Garth (the open green space in the center). It is much larger than many and the girls had a great time running around, peeking through the round arches and hopping over low walls. Be sure to climb the stairs beside the tower for a beautiful view down into the cloister. And a great game can be made of finding the grotesques- like this little guy:

If you are heading in to Kilkenny Town from Jerpoint Abbey try to find Clara Castle, a 15th century national monument. It is located 4.5mi/7km east of Kilkenny, reached on a minor road which branches left off the N10. It is an unusually well-preserved six-story tower house which still has the original oak beams, giving an excellent impression of the character of a fortified dwelling of the period. Among features of particular interest are the forecourt, a passage with a "murder hole" (a hole in the roof through which intruders could be pelted with missiles), a fine fireplace and a secret room.

Now, we missed the road; there is supposed to be a small sign (but maybe it is only visible if you are coming from Kilkenny Town?) According to resources there should be signs to follow along the minor road, as well. And, according to Frommer's you can request a key from the Murphys who live in the first house past the castle on the right.

Clara Castle is an open site and currently has no entry fee.

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Glendine House B&B, Arthurstown, County Wexford, Ireland

We spent two nights at Glendine Country House during our last trip to Ireland. If you are traveling from Dublin the trip will take approximately 3 hours. If you are coming from Waterford City Glendine House is only 10k via car ferry (a great adventure for little ones!)

We arrived at Glendine House quite tired from the flight, the driving (and getting lost) and exploring Glendalough. We were warmly greeted by Rita who showed us our very nicely appointed rooms and prepared a lovely tea with scones and jam for us in the parlor.

Glendine House, owned by Ann and Tom Crosbie, is a Georgian Manor built in 1830 and has a wonderful history: (from their website) The 18th Century former Dower House of the Marquis of Donegal was built in 1830. It was first occupied by the Chichester family and later by land agents until one of them absconded with a Nursery Nurse causing a great scandal. Home to the Crosbie family for over 60 years, Glendine retains many of its original 1830 features and is full of old world charm.

The rooms are filled with antiques and are quite spacious. All have ensuite bathrooms (also quite spacious) with shower, sink and toilet. The room Doug & I shared with our youngest daughter had a double bed, amoire, dresser with mirror and a wonderful sitting area in the alcove with a view of the Barrow Estuary and a field of sheep. A television was almost hidden in an upper corner of the room. We requested a cot (pack and play) for our daughter and were very pleased with the crib and bedding that was set up.

The room my mother and eldest daughter shared had two twin beds, an antique dresser and a chair in the small alcove. My mother doesn't remember a TV being in that room but I'm guessing that Brenna kept her too busy to notice it. This room was next to ours and also had a beautiful view.

Our rooms were in the older portion of the house and had a lovely sitting area in a wide hallway where we could relax together. Glendine House was completely renovated in 2005 and has 6 "new" rooms as well, also very nicely turned out. For a romantic getaway I recommend their suite. I snuck a peek at it and it's wonderful.

If you wish to be a bit more "on your own" Glendine House also offers cottages with a full kitchen.

A full breakfast was offered every morning in the dining room, also filled with antiques. The cold buffet included cereal, fruit and yogurt. Cooked breakfasts included the "Full Irish"- quite tasty (and filling), smoked salmon and French toast as well as yummy brown bread and toast.

Of course all of this makes for a wonderful stay but the reason I chose Glendine House really had to do with my daughters. They have an outdoor play area, Highland cattle, Jacob Sheep and Fallow deer (which can be hand fed carrots).

If you're like me and ship items ahead Ann and her assistant Joan will make sure they are waiting in your room when you arrive.

Glendine House has something for absolutely everyone.

Dining while at Glendine House:

Our first night at Glendine House we had been traveling for about 28 hours. All we wanted was food and bed. Luckily there is a Centra (grocery) about two miles from Glendine House. We picked up some bread, meats, cheese and other odds and ends and had a "picnic" in the parlor. Rita brought us more scones, jam and tea, as well.

Our second night, after wandering the countyside, we asked for a recommendation and were directed to The Hollow Bar. The night we went was Mother's Day (the fourth Sunday in the month of Lent) and the place was packed. We were able to be seated in the bar area at a very small table with barely enough room for the 5 of us. Because it was a holiday I will give them a pass on being out of a few of the dishes on the menu. What we were served, however, was nothing memorable. The steak was very fatty and overcooked (I know you don't order steak in Ireland- but they were out of the fish.) The service was slow (again because of the holiday?) and the waitress we had seemed overwhelmed. All in all it was a mediocre meal that cost over $100.

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Glendalough, County Wicklow, Ireland

Glendalough is about two hours south of the Dublin airport. Gleann dá locha literally means the ‘Glen of the two lakes’ as the ancient monastic community lies in a beautiful valley in the middle of the Wicklow Mountains.

If you are heading to Glendalough from Dublin I highly recommend printing off this map as we used a road map and went in a very scenic back way. We got terribly lost as we missed signs that were hidden in hedgerows or could only be seen from one direction. At least it was an adventure and getting lost in Ireland is one of my greatest joys.

Glendalough was founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin, a hermit priest. It was destroyed in 1398 by English troops. St. Kevin chose the site due to it's remoteness but was soon joined by several men wanting to follow his teachings. The site soon became an important school.

As you arrive at Glendalough you can begin trail walking or view the ruins without stopping at the visitor center. The visitor's center does have a great exhibition (with interactive round tower and depiction of that the surrounding village may have looked like), a short film about the arrival of Christianity in Ireland and wonderful carved stones found at the site. If you decide to enter the visitor center (and have other sites on your list) look into an OPW Heritage Card. This card covers many of Ireland's greatest sites and is good for one year from date of purchase. It can be purchased at any OPW site, the Dublin or Shannon airports and certain tourist offices.

Directly behind the visitor center is the Glendalough Hotel. Because we were hungry after our extra long excursion we stepped in for a hot drink and some food. In retrospect I would have rather eaten from the cart serving hamburgers. But the service was quite good and they were great with the girls.

The monastic site sits by the Lower Lake; you enter by climbing steps and walking through a wonderful gateway arch. Walk past the tents set up to sell trinkets. You'll be able to get souveniers like that anywhere.

Most people who come to the site wish to see the wonderfully restored round tower and "St. Kevin's Kitchen", located directly behind the visitor's center.

The round tower is 33 meters high and the entrance is 3.5 meters from the ground. The cone roof was rebuilt in 1876 using original stones. It once has 6 wooden floors connected by ladders and was mainly used as a bell tower and storage although it could be used for safety during attacks.

St. Kevin's Church, also called St.Kevin's Kitchen, is a small and charming nave built in the 12th century. The roof is stone (a center wall in a small chamber above the church prevents it from sagging). The small round tower was used as a belfry and was added after the church was completed.

The view from the monastic settlement into the valley is quite lovely, even on a cold and sleeting day.

On a lovely day there are dozens of trails to walk (there is some good information here) and many more sites to see near the Upper Lake. Bring sturdy walking shoes or boots. And a stroller if you have a little one- the main trails are paved.

The girls enjoyed Glendalough because it was really our first stop- after a 7 hour plane ride and about 3 hours of sleep in the car they were ready to run around. Brenna was astounded by the tower's door being so high off the ground so the village minature in the visitor center was a great visual for her.

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A Bit About Car Rentals in Europe

On our recent trip to Ireland I booked as much stuff as I could before we left and paid with US dollars. It's just more economical with the exchange rate.

So when I was able to book a mini van for a week for $440.35 through Hertz I jumped on it. What I was told to expect was a Ford Galaxy or similar. OK, that looks like it should work for 3 adults, 2 children (in carseats) and luggage.

When we arrived to pick up the car we found that mini van translates to "7 passenger vehicle" in Ireland. Which is not the same as a mini van. (I wish I could tell you what it was, but they don't show it on their website) It's more like a small station wagon (think Subaru Outback). Needless to say, there was no way we could fit my mom in the back seat with two carseats. It was narrow and had low clearance. With all the driving we had planned there was just no way we could use it for a week.

After walking through the lot with an agent and looking at all the cars in the class we had chosen Doug & I were forced to admit that they were all too small; we would have to upgrade. Luckily there was one Land Rover with a manual transmission. You pay much more for an automatic transmission in Europe.

We took it- and paid in euros (therefore almost tripling our car rental costs).

Now I want to let you know that it was about the best decision we could have made. The ride was comfortable and there was plenty of room. We didn't complain one bit about the extra cost.

But just so you don't make the same mistake as I did... I highly recommend calling the rental company a couple of days before you leave, just to confirm your reservation. At that time ask what kind of car you can expect- there are many European cars that we just don't have here in the US. Go online and research that car. If it just won't do for your family and plans call back and see what is available for an upgrade. And make your change online if possible. Or through your travel agent if you have used one. But be sure to pay in US dollars if at all possible. Until the exchange rate evens out it's your best bet.

And remember that European cars are often smaller. Gas is much more expensive over there- it averaged €1.27 litre while we were there. That's close to $6 per gallon. And larger vehicles use more gas.

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Dublin, Ireland

I have mixed feelings about Dublin. Well, it's more than that. I really wish we hadn't gone into Dublin. I wish we had explored other parts of Ireland instead.

That said, Dublin is a great city. It's vibrant, has great public transport and amazing history. It's just not a great city to explore with a one-year-old. Had it just been my husband and I, I am sure we would love it the way we love London. We had two days in Dublin.

Our final B&B was located outside Dublin in Dun loaghaire (pronounced leery). Lissadell Guest House was very nice. The room was spacious, with an ensuite bath and wonderful breakfasts. The owners are not on site but are only a phone call away. We spoke with John Goldrick at length one morning as we enjoyed our breakfast; he is a warm gentleman and exudes Irish Charm.

We were close enough to a DART station to leave the car at the B&B. Public transportation in Dublin is exceptional. We had no problem hopping on and off the trains or catching a bus or cab if we needed one. Dublin is a terrific city for walking; everything was closer than we thought it would be.

Because of Brenna's age she didn't really appreciate our attempts to view the Tara Brooch; we didn't even attempt Trinity College to see the Book of Kells. And DIT (Dublin Institute of Technology) was holding their graduation at St. Patrick's Cathedral the day we planned to visit.

So we spent our time trying to find things that would keep her amused.

We visited the Dublin Zoo. Dublin has a wonderful zoo. And because we were there in November it wasn't at all busy. We were able to get up close to everything. And we timed our visit just right- the monkeys were being fed. It's great fun to see monkeys eat.

Dublin is full of parks, the most well known being St. Stephen's Green. If you're a shopper there is a mall right next to it. But we were there for the park. We wandered around for quite a long time. Brenna had great fun picking up leaves and watching the ducks in the lake.

But mostly our time was spent just wandering around the city, taking it in. And shopping on Grafton Street. Tip: go early.



Dublin is beautiful:
Ha'Penny Bridge: in the 18th century it cost half a penny to cross- now it's free. Which means that this is possibly the only thing in Dublin that has gone down in price.
Dublin's icon (whether they like it or not): Molly Malone
Old Dublin: It's a museum called Dublinia and has much about the Vikings and Normans.
The original wall of Dublin.
A bridge across the lake in St. Stephen's Green.

And I really look forward to visiting again... When the girls are much older.

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Eating Around Ireland

You can get anything you want in Ireland. But why would you want McDonald's, TGIFriday's or anything else you can get at home? Open yourself to Irish food.

If you stay at a B&B- and possibly even a hotel- you will be offered a traditional Irish Breakfast. There is enough food offered at this meal to get you through early afternoon.

You will be offered eggs along with sausage, bacon, grilled tomatoes, black pudding, and white pudding. On the side is Irish brown bread served with sweet Irish butter and the famous Irish preserves. Top off breakfast with a cup of Irish breakfast tea. Quite often oatmeal, cereal and yogurt will be an option, too. Which was terrific for our daughter.

Because breakfast was so filling we often just stopped at a market to grab yummy Irish cheese, bread and fruit for lunch and snacks.

At dinner we asked the B&B owners for their recommendations. We had delicious fish and chips, wonderful stews, amazing foods freshly prepared from local produce. Always ask a local where they like to eat. They will never steer you wrong.

We did plan to eat at one restaurant: Gallagher's Boxty House in Dublin. Boxty is best described as a thin potato pancake filled with meats, vegetables and sauce. So yummy.

Open yourself up to the traditional tastes of Ireland. Try the black pudding. Enjoy the brown bread. And take afternoon tea.

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Some of the Best Stuff in Ireland is Unplanned

As I said in a previous post, driving is really the best way to see Ireland. Some of the greatest sights were unplanned.

Like the beautiful village of Fethard. We were driving from Cashel to Dublin and decided to do a bit of exploring along the way. Somehow we lost our way and came upon this lovely walled town.

After departing Fethard we soon found ourselves on roads with no signs. Completely unsure of where we were we pulled off the road to attempt to get our bearings.

With our map open on the hood of the car we tried to "find" ourselves. And almost missed this beautiful view of the mists on what I assume are the Slievardagh Hills. The mist burned off soon after but it was spectacular when we saw it.

After figuring out- kind of- where we were we noticed that Kells Priory was between us and Dublin. I had considered that as a stop but, had we not gotten lost, we probably wouldn't have made the stop. Kells Priory is an enclosed medieval site. It sits along King's River and features a lovely walk to the site if you park by the old mill. Like most Irish ruins the land is privately owned but the owners graciously allow visitors (and the ruins are maintained by the State). We did have to dodge some sheep droppings but the site was so impressive and expansive that it was worth it. There is lots of room for kids to run about. Since you have to be your own guide here take a minute to stop by the post office in town and purchase a book about the Priory's long and embattled history.

Outside the Priory walls are St. Kieran's Church, a lovely ruin for exploring as well, and Hutchinson's Mill (you can see it behind the Priory three photos up) which sits on King's River.

Leaving Kells we got onto a main highway and pointed the car toward Dublin. Soon, however, we began seeing sings for the Moone High Cross. Now,I don't know about you, but to me High Crosses are one of the great sights of Ireland.

Moone High Cross doesn't disappoint. At 17 1/2 feet high it is one of the best preserved High Crosses in Ireland. It stands, protected, in the ruins of the abbey along with fragments of another cross as well as descriptions of the carvings and the significance of the High Cross.

The cross sits back about a quarter mile from the road; to enter you walk through a cleft in a stone wall. You can almost feel like you are stepping back through time. When we were visiting a very friendly horse was penned next to the path. He let me pet his nose; I wish I had known he would be there, I would have taken an apple for him.

So, on my advice, take your time and stop for anything that looks interesting. It may be one of your favorite memories.

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