Levens Hall – History for kids with a Tasty Twist!

Today's guest post comes from Zoë Dawes from The Quirky Traveller. I "met" Zoë on Twitter and she offered to share her views of travel with her 12-year-old son around the UK. I hope you enjoy her stories. I know they make me want to hop a jet and "cross the pond"!

“Race you to the Witch’s Hat”, Alex, my 12year old son, shouted to his mate Charlie, as we wandered around the beautiful historic topiary gardens of Levens Hall, South Lakeland, Cumbria, UK. We were at Cumbria's annual Chilli Fest, which takes place within the grounds of Levens Hall www.levenshall.co.uk just outside Kendal. It's famous for its Grade 1 listed Gardens, originally designed in the 1690s. Children just love the topiary, which is cut into some quite extraordinary shapes including the wonderful ‘hat’ shown opposite.

The Chilli Festival happens every August, and has lots for both adults and children to amuse themselves with. Chilli Roulette was a big favourite; spin the wheel and have a 1-in-6 chance of getting a chilli choc instead of a milk choc. Alex ‘won’ one – his face was a picture as the chilli exploded in his mouth!

Another big attraction was the Puppet Theatre, which had a witch who tried to put her victims into a cauldron to make chilli soup – a big hit with the younger children, as you can see.

Brightly coloured stalls sold every kind of chilli flavoured products imaginably, including jams, chutneys, crisps, nuts, and, of course, hot, hot, hot sauces. Other attractions which we enjoyed included Salsa dancing, a Mexican band and the Children’s Chilli Trail which took them all over the grounds.

NEW FOR 2009 - A LIVING WILLOW LABYRINTH (HUNT FOR THE HARE)

Created from willow cuttings grown at Newton Rigg, near Penrith, the Labyrinth has been created by Chris Crowder & his team of gardeners during the winter months. The Labyrinth will grow during the summer months to form a green hedge and a maze will provide paths for children and adults to explore as they hunt for the elusive hare in its centre.

Historic Gardens Play Area
A new children’s play area has been established in the historic topiary garden with challenging climbing and slides for children under-12s and picnic tables for families.

The House has lots to keep children engaged. There are cabinets full of unusual things, old costumes, swords and the Bleeding Chair ... you'll have to visit to find out what that is! But perhaps the biggest draw is the many ‘Spooky Spirits’ who supposedly live there. They include ‘The Grey & Pink Ladies’, ‘The Phantom Black Dog’ and ‘The Traffic Ghost’…

The Chilli Fest happens annually in August and Levens Hall is open from Spring until October each year. Nearby are the varied many attractions of the Lake District. For more details www.golakes.co.uk

© Zoë Dawes August 2009 http://quirkytraveller.wordpress.com
written for ’Have Kid Will Travel’

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Salisbury House, Des Moines, Iowa, USA

Salisbury House viewed from the gardens

I'm not sure anyone would think to look in Des Moines, Iowa for a 15th century English manor. OK, building began in 1923, at least 400 years after its namesake was built, but the date makes the building no less impressive.

Carl Weeks and his wife Edith were in Salisbury, England in 1921 and saw "Kings House", which now houses the Salisbury And South Wiltshire Museum. They knew instantly that they would design their Des Moines home after the Tudor style mansion. Not only did he design his home to look historic- many of the materials actually were historic. The west section of the roof and the cottage were covered with 17th century tile from Lord Nelson’s Trafalgar estate in England and interiors included imported 16th-century English oak paneling and floors, as well as five fireplaces. It's spectacular.

Salisbury House is now owned by the Salisbury House Foundation and is open for tours March 1 thru December 31, Tuesday thru Friday and Sunday. Schedules and prices can be found here.

The Weeks were avid collectors. In addition to the antique art and tapestries you'll see antique swords, rare books and documents (including a leaf from the original Gutenberg Bible), English Wedgewood, and medieval armor. What's most impressive, though, is that Carl and Edith Weeks raised four boys in this home. Upstairs reflects more about their life as a family.

In addition to tours Salisbury House also hosts public events and allows the house and gardens to be rented for private events- like weddings. Talk about a fairy tale! Some of the most popular public events are:
Chamber Music Concerts

History Lectures

Salisbury Automobile Classic

Gatsby Gala

Shakespeare on the Lawn

Jazz in July

In the past Salisbury House has also participated in the Holly & Ivy tour. Viewing the house decorated for Christmas is truly magical. We have also had "Tea at the Castle" for Mother's Day.

Salisbury House was featured in an episode of America's Castles: The Anglophiles on A&E in 1997.

To view more photos from this amazing house click here. It may just make you want to visit Des Moines! There's more here than you might think!

Things To Do
Des Moines

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Doolin- Harbour View B&B and Gus O'Connor's Pub- and the Burren

Our final days in Ireland were spent in the wonderful rooms of Harbour View B&B in Doolin.

Harbour View is a purpose built B&B and all I can say is: what a great job they did! You can tell just how much thought went in to making this an inviting guest house. The rooms are spacious and comfortable with large en suite bathrooms. All rooms are on the ground level and many have a great view looking over the town and out to the ocean. Cathy Normoyle, your gracious hostess, says you can see the Aran Islands on a clear day. (We didn't have a clear day when we were there so I can't claim to have seen them). Most of the bedrooms sleep two and a couple even sleep three. The beds were very comfortable and a cot is available upon request. All rooms have coffee and tea service and a lovely sitting area for gazing out the large windows at the breathtaking view.

Upon entering you will see an inviting sitting area with a large TV and fireplace. When we were there Cathy's beautiful son was enjoying Nickelodeon- my girls hadn't seen Dora in almost a week; they were overjoyed!

The dining area is through the sitting room and toward the back of the house. It is a lovely open room with a center buffet of cereals, cheeses, yogurts, fresh baked breads or scones, milk and juice. Cathy serves a full Irish breakfast that will keep your energy up well in to the afternoon. There is no highchair available, so be sure to bring your trusty travel booster.

Harbour View is an easy hour from the Shannon airport so it makes a great final location for your travels and Doolin is a wonderful base for touring the Burren.

Burren is derived from the Irish word boirreann, meaning a rocky place and, well, the description is spot on. I actually joked with Doug that this is the place they grow the rocks for all the stone fences in Ireland.

Plan the better part of a day to meander through the rocky landscape. You'll want to stop at Polnabrone Dolmon and marvel at the strength it must have taken to maneuver the rocks into position. The sheer size of this tomb is difficult to imagine until you stand beside it. This is the most accessible dolmon in the Burren so you may see a lot of tour buses. They don't stay long and tend to be on similar schedules so wait them out for a less crowded self tour.

The Burren has hundreds of megalithic wedge tombs, dolmons and ring forts, so a visit to Burren National Park is worth your while.

A great stop while in the Burren is Lisdoonvarna, famous for it's matchmaking festival every September and the Spa Wells Heath Center with it's Victorian pump room.

If you haven't viewed any round towers the Kilmacduagh Monastery near Gort should definately be on your list. Even if you have the history of the settlement and the legends that surround it are worth your time. A note from the linked website: Visitor's are encouraged to begin their exploration by walking over to Tower View Villa B&B across the street to get the master key for the locks on the buildings. There is a 5 deposit and a short history of the site is available from the innkeeper, Lily, for 2.50. Grab a copy of this guide before getting started. It will be invaluable as you wander through the buildings.

Once back in Doolin you have quite a few amusements to keep you occupied. I highly recommend at least one evening at Gus O'Connor's Pub. If you visit during high season you'll find music every night. Otherwise you may have to wait until the weekend. But Doolin is known for it's traditional Irish music so you won't be disappointed. The musicians sit in a booth- it's called a session- which makes it very informal and easy to join in. There is no set time so try some of the best fish & chips I've ever tasted or the huge bowl of steamed mussels, grab a pint, join in the craic and relish in a true pub experience.

Because it is a pub you will not be waited on. Head up to the bar to make your drink and food orders (and to grab menus) and chat with the bartender.

If you have nice weather spend some time wandering through Doolin and stopping in the craft and jewelry shops. And don't pass by the music shops- this is the heart of Irish traditional music.

If you are heading to the Cliffs of Moher from Doolin you will surely see Doonagore Castle on the edge of town.

This gorgeous 16th century tower house is privately owned and, therefore, not open to the public. It's absolutely stunning and on a sunny day the reflection from the tiles on the conical roof are brilliant.

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More Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, County Clare, Ireland

Bunratty Castle and Folk Park has something for everyone. The castle is one of the best restored in Ireland and you can go up to the roof top battlements and look over the "kingdom". The folk park if great fun in the sun or rain.

As we have been to Bunratty before you will want to review this post. This time I bring you video tours.

First, the castle:

And now the folk park:

If you are anywhere near Shannon with kids Bunratty should definitely be on your list of things to do.

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Killarney for Kids: Killarney National Park, Ross Castle and Muckross House, Friary and Traditional Farms

We spent 4 days and 3 nights around Killarney. There is a reason this is one of Ireland's tourist hot-spots - there is so much to do! We didn't even scratch the surface. Kid friendly doesn't even begin to describe all you can do in and around Killarney.

Killarney National Park is Ireland's first national park. It came into being in 1932 when the Muckross Estate was gifted to Ireland by Senator Arthur Vincent and his parents-in-law Mr. and Mrs. William Bowers Bourn, in memory of his late wife Maud.

The National Park covers over 25,000 acres of mountains, moors, woods, lakes and rivers, parks and gardens. There are many entries into the park within and outside of Killarney and a nice day will have the paths filled with walkers and bikers. (Bikes are available for rent in Killarney at Kerry Bike Hire or Killarney Rent a Bike.) We chose to get an overview of the park by taking a ride in a jaunting cart. Automobiles are not allowed inside the park.

Jaunting carts gather on Kenmare Place in Killarney. This is a main roundabout on the edge of Killareny's tourist district (just in front of Lir Cafe & Chocolates); you won't miss it. Our driver, Martin (who, quite incidentally, took me on my first jaunting cart tour of Killarney National Park in 2003), was a wealth of information during our ride through the park and stopped for photo opps. (He and his wife also own a B&B on Ross Road).

Your jaunting cart tour will take you through a portion of the park, past a large public playground, and to Ross Castle on Lough Leane (the Lake of Learning).

Ross Castle is a 15th century tower house and was one of the last strongholds in the region to surrender to Oliver Cromwell in 1652. It has been restored and is furnished in the style of the 16th and 17th centuries. Guided tours are available mid-March thru late November.

If you picnic near Ross Castle save bits of bread or crackers for the ducks and swans that inhabit Lough Leane year round. They'll come right to the edge of the lake to say hi. My girls were fascinated with the "birdies".

Ross Castle is an OPW Heritage site. An OPW Hertiage Card card covers many of Ireland's greatest sites and is good for one year from date of purchase. It can be purchased at any OPW site, the Dublin or Shannon airports and certain tourist offices.

Lough Leane was given it's name because of the monastery that sits on it's largest island, Innisfallen. Built in the 7th century and occupied for nearly 700 years this is where the 'Annals of Innisfallen', a cronicle of early Irish history, was written. If you wish to investigate the ruins on Innisfallen rowboats are available for rent at the castle.

The Muckross Estate is the center of Killarney National Park and is a great place to begin the day.

We first drove out Kenmare Road (N71) and parked at an entrance to the park near Muckross Abbey. There will likely be jaunting carts here but decline and enjoy the short stroll. This is a great ruin to explore as you can climb the narrow spiral staircases into the upper levels for great views of the lakes. A large yew tree fills the cloister court. At the edge of the cloister you will also see this terrific tile map of the Abbey:

Take time to explore the church yard as many Irish notables are laid here- including The McCarthy Mor, king of Munster (he's in the chancel).

From here you can walk to Muckross House or return to your car and drive another mile down the road to the main entrance. Muckross House is open year round, while its Traditional Farms are open late March thru October.

Muckross Estate is an OPW Heritage site. An OPW Hertiage Card card covers many of Ireland's greatest sites and is good for one year from date of purchase. It can be purchased at any OPW site, the Dublin or Shannon airports and certain tourist offices.

The tour of Muckross House, a breathtaking 19th century Victorian mansion, is well worth your time. Small children may become bored about half way through so my recommendation is to take separate tours- one parent tours inside while the other parent tours the gardens with the children. (if you do take your kids on the tour the guides are most gracious and give special attention to your little ones.)

Where my daughters didn't become bored, however, were on the grounds of Muckross Estate and in the gardens. Outside the front entrance (seen above) you will find more jaunting carts. This is a great place to catch a ride if you haven't been on one yet. Otherwise just stroll the grounds. From here you have a great yard that nestles up to Middle Lake. Around back you will find an amazing rock garden filled with stone paths and benches. It's a great place to explore and look for faeries.

If the kids get tired of exploring there they will surely love the maze garden just down the hill.

After playing and touring take a break in the Walled Garden Center and visit the craft shop, view weavers and potters, and have a quick snack (or lunch) in the restaurant.

Then venture over to Muckross Traditional Farms. Visit three working farms and the people that were necessary to make them work. The time span for the farms is the 1930's and 40's when then main power was horses and the day ended when the sun went down.

If you're up for a bit more exploring you can walk or drive (a bit farther down the N71) to Torc Waterfall. It may not be the biggest waterfall you've ever seen but it is set in such a beautiful location that you'll want to take your photo in front of it.

More Killarney for Kids:
Shopping
Mystical Rose B&B, Dining & Handy Hints
Kennedy's Animal, Bird & Pet Farm

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Kilkenny Castle, County Kilkenny, Ireland

Kilkenny Castle is the type of castle you picture in your mind. Imposing from the outside, opening to a great park at the rear and a garden with fountains at the front. Kilkenny Castle is almost like a fairy tale.

Kilkenny Castle belonged to the Butler family, the earls of Ormande from 1391 to 1967 when it was handed over to the Irish government to be painstakingly restored to its former splendor. Guided tours through the castle are available; arrive early and book ahead if you can to avoid disappointment (or naptime).

Note: Kilkenny Castle is an OPW Heritage Site. You can purchase an OPW card here for use at other OPW sites. OPW cards are good for one year from purchase.

The restoration of the castle is breathtaking; it has been refurnished with period pieces and portraits of the Butler family )as well as a King and Queen of England) and a suite of Brussles tapestries. Unfortunately no photos are allowed inside so I strongly suggest a short stop in the bookstore to pick up a visitor's guide and a few postcards.

If you don't plan ahead for a tour (because we didn't- learn from me) be sure to take in the grounds. The entrance to the grounds is through the arched gateway in the curtain wall along the Parade. (Before you enter look to the right. See if you can spot the garedrobe (toilet) chute and small Posturn Gate with stone steps that led to the moat.) This brings you into the courtyard; you are surrounded on three sides by the castle.

And laying to the east are acres of parkland. If it's sunny stop and pick up some Irish cheese and some bread for a picnic on the grounds. Bring a ball or kite. This is a perfect spot to relax and play. In fact, there is a play area for the kids with swings, climbing areas and slides.

To the west of the castle (accessible by walking around the castle or through a gate from the Parade) are the formal gardens. Obviously they are much more beautiful during the spring and summer but the girls were fascinated by the fountain.

The River Nore runs along side Kilkenny Castle and a river walk is accessible from the park.

While there are other great things to do in Kilkenney I recommend heading just south of town to the Medieval Kells Priory. Heading south on N76 from Kilkenny follow signs for r699/Callan and stay on R699 until you see signs for Kells.

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Cahir Castle and Town, County Tipperary, Ireland

Cahir (pronounced 'care') makes a terrific afternoon trip out of Cashel. The castle-complete with a moat- is especially nice for children as it sits on a small island and both the grounds and the castle are very open and perfect for exploring.

Once inside the main keep you can enter the castle through a rather sinister looking portcullis.

You can walk on the battlements, explore the upper levels of the castle or imagine dining in the great hall. Across the outer ward are the residence cottages, built after the main castle, also available to explore. This is a great stop for wandering through a castle on your own as it feels like (almost) nothing is off limits. You really get a feel for what it could have been like to live there.

The village of Cahir is lovely. It looks just like you imagine all Irish towns look. Perfect.

And if you enjoy antiquing you will be overjoyed. Cahir is full of antique shops. We saw absolutely amazing things here. We spent a lot of time "furnishing" our imaginary manor. Brenna especially liked this 18th century fish tank.

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Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary, Ireland

I have yet to see anyting more imposing or awe inspiring than the Rock of Cashel. Breathtaking, spellbinding, awesome... These words don't even do it justice.

It was originaly built as a fortress in the 4th or 5th century. In the late 7th century St. Patrick baptised a King of Munster here. Cashel was the seat and symbol of the overkingship of Munster and the inaguration place of its kings. In 1101 the reigning King of Cashel gave "the Rock" to the church. Of course their was much religious turmoil in Ireland for the next 700 years and "the Rock", being the great symbol that it is, was not peaceful. In 1869 it was given into State Care as a National Monument and underwent great restoration.

The original St Patrick's Cross sits indoors, out of the elements. A replica sits outside in it's (approximate) original location.

The Rock of Cashel is a great stop if you have children because the grounds are very open and easy to wander. Feel free to admire the architecture and the Celtic art, since the entire site is walled in kids can't get very far.

There is quite a steep walk up to the main entrance so be sure to bring along your stroller as you really don't want to carry anyone.

"The Rock" certainly overshadows the other great sites in Cashel but try not to overlook Hore Abbey (we couldn't tour it as there were cows in the field), Athassel Priory, the town of Cashel with it's abbey and friary and the Bolton Library which houses the "world's smallest book".

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Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, County Clare, Ireland

Bunratty Castle and Folk Park deserves at least half a day. Which half really depends on the age of your children.

If your kids are young, as Brenna was when we visited, I would suggest making this your morning stop. Explore the castle, wander through the folk park and let the kids run off their energy at the wonderful castle playground.

If your kids are older- and not picky eaters- I suggest making this your afternoon and evening entertainment and joining the festivities at the Medieval Banquet. I really enjoyed the banquet on my first trip to Ireland (I was single at the time and went alone- just me, a car & a map) and highly recommend it.

Bunratty Castle was built in 1425 and restored in 1954 and contains 15th and 16the century furnishings, art and tapestries. (You can view these items by clicking here) You are allowed to wander through the castle at your own pace. It is possible to climb to the roof of the castle and look out over the "kingdom".

Just keep in mind that anything above the main level is centuries old and therefore accessible only by very narrow,very steep, very windy steps. If your kids aren't walking don't forget your carriers.



The Bunratty Folk Park is a fabulous adventure for the whole family. Filled with examples of Irish homes, shops and a village there is plenty to explore. Many of the buildings were disassembled at their original locations and rebuilt at Bunratty; you really get a feel of what Irish life was like from midieval times until quite recently.

The village is "fully functioning" with costumed performers going about their "lives". It includes a school, a doctor, a pub, pawnbroker, printer and post office- to list just a few. Be prepared to stop and chat with both the "citizens" of Bunratty as well as other visitors. And don't forget to take time to sample the fresh baked items in the Tea Room or a pint at the pub.

If you like to garden- or just enjoy looking at a beautiful garden- don't miss the Bunratty Walled Garden, modeled after gardens of the Regency era. It is beautifully laid out and a joy to wander through.

If the Medieval Banquet isn't on your agenda but you would like to have an Irish Experience you might enjoy the Traditional Irish Night. This evening is not so formal as the banquet but no less enjoyable.

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